So here we are on the Beagle Channel, named after the HMS
Beagle, captained by Pringle Stokes in the 1826-30. The ship, which became
famous later for transporting Charles Darwin on his life-changing trip through
South America, was making surveys of parts of the South American coast, along with another, HMS Adventure under Capt. King. Sadly, Capt. Stokes
committed suicide after a lengthy bout of depression. Robert Fitzroy was meteorologist
on the Beagle and was eventually promoted to master. It was on the second voyage of the Beagle
around the world- 1831-1836- that Fitzroy took Darwin along as a companion. Arguably,
the most brilliant biologist and naturalist ever to have lived, Darwin went on
to write the famous “Origin of Species” and many other seminal works.
The channel is an amazing place, bordered to the north by
Chile and Argentina and to the south by various Chilean islands. The land is
clad with dank Southern Beech forest and at higher elevations above the
treeline, snow fields were still prominent.
You could smell the beech in the air!
Of course, the Beagle Channel is
familiar to Fram because we start and end most of our cruises to Antarctica
from Ushuaia, the most southerly city in the world. “USH” sits on the north
shore of the channel.
Today was the start of our third cruise this Antarctic
summer season. We have a full ship of eager passengers looking forward to the
Falkland Islands, South Georgia and Antarctica. First days are always tough.
People are tired after traveling so far (Ushuaia is a long way from anywhere!) and
all they want to do is settle into their cabins for a good rest before starting
the trip. Before that could happen though, a few things need to be done such as
the important safety briefing and also the enjoyable Captain’s welcome
reception.
As we sailed east down the Beagle, the mountains, clouds and
sun made for dramatic scenery everywhere you looked. What a great way to start
our trip!