The Luxury of Being At The Pier

At the pier in Ny-Ålesund

In Ny-Ålesund we have the luxury of being at the pier.  You can just walk on or off the ship as you wish.  Starting at 09:00 the Expedition Team guided small groups through the tiny community. We learned all about the history of Ny-Ålesund.  It is a fascinating story of tragedy, victory, commerce, exploration and science with real heroes, villains and victims.  Coal mining started here way back in 1917.  A legacy of terrible accidents eventually resulted in the closing of the mines in 1962. Subsequently a decision was made to establish a permanent Arctic research station here starting in 1964.  There are now ten different nations here with permanent facilities working cooperatively with the Norwegian Polar Institute. 

Atmospheric monitoring station high on Mount Zeppelin in Ny-Ålesund

It was from Ny-Ålesund that Admiral Byrd, Roald Amundsen and Umberto Umbile all flew to the north pole in separate attempts. The Expedition Team wove a tail

of mystery, intrigue and even possible murder in the conquest of the pole by air as they lead us through town.

The tour took about an hour which left enough time for a quick shopping excursion in the most northern boutique in the world..

Bird cliffs at Cadiopynten

In the afternoon we enjoyed some ship cruising along some really great bird colonies at Cadiopynten.  At times the sir seemed full of birds which included everyone’s favourite, Puffins!  There were also lots of Northern Fulmars, Little Auks (Dovekies), Kittiwakes and Black Guillemots.

Our lecture series continued throughout the afternoon with 5 different lectures on the wildlife, history and Geology of Svalbard.

In the evening we enjoyed films on some of the early explorers of the Arctic.

Monaco & Mushamna

Blue iceberg at Monacobreen

Trapper's cabin at Mushamna (photo ©Karsten Bidstrup)

Our stop at Monaco Glacier means cruising with the Polar Cirkel boats along a 5 km wall of ice.  Yippee!  At 09:00 we dropped the anchor and soon thereafter the Polar Cirkel boats were whisking people to the glacier.  Monaco is very active, calving huge chunks of ice on a regular basis.  As always on Fram, safety is our first priority.  Our precautionary rule for a minimum safe distance when approaching a glacier is about four times the glacier’s height.  This still allows for spectacular views of the glacial wall (terminus). The sea was crowded with icebergs and bergy bits.  We went from one iceberg to the next.  Each iceberg was completely unique.  We oh-ed, and ah-ed and photographed and admired the many shapes and the many saturated shades of translucent blue. There is nothing like cruising in ice in a small boat.  It is a lot of fun.

Old fox trap at Mushamna

In the afternoon we had a pleasant surprise.  Karin Strand, the Expedition Leader, announced an unscheduled landing at Mushamna deep in Woodfjorden!  We landed by a beautiful hunter’s cabin.  The landlord of the cabin is the Govenor of Svalbard.  The tenants vary from year to year.  Each occupant is only allowed to stay for one year with a possible option to extend for another year.  This year’s tenant’s had just vacated about three weeks ago. 

There was plenty of avian wildlife in the immediate area which included Eider Ducks, Bryants Geese, Arctic Terns, Purple Sandpipers, Red-throated Loons, Kittiwakes, Glaucous Gulls, Ivory Gulls, Parasitic Jaegers, Black Guillemots and Northern Fulmars.

Dwarf Birch at Mushamna already showing fall colour

August 6 and the wildflowers were already past their peek but here and there were bright splashes of pink Moss Campion and dashes of white Arctic Chickweed. The summer season is short and intense. The Dwarf Willow was changing colour from bright green to yellow, red and orange. It seemed like the fall was already approaching.

We also found two old fox traps.  One of them still had most of the parts.  It is a very simple device.  Heavy rocks are piled on a wooden platform which is propped up on a stick.  When a fox grabs the bait, the heavy platform falls, killing the fox and leaving the fir intact.

As we prepared to leave the beach at Mushamna, the low grey cloud cover began to drop even lower.  We lifted the anchor and sailed into the mist.  Our next stop, Ny-Ålesund. 

Too Much Ice To Get To Barentsburg!

Sea ice in Adventfjorden

At last! Our Arctic adventure has well and truly started.  Most of us stayed in a hotel in Longyearbyen last night.  This morning we attended a comprehensive briefing on what to expect in the coming days on Fram.  Following the briefing we had a nice lunch in the hotel and then a city tour by motor coach which included stops at the museum and gallery.

Northern Fulmar in Isfjorden

At 16:30 our motor coaches brought us to our new home-away-from-home.  Fram.  The check-in process ran quite efficiently. It was amazing to see how quickly we all were issued photo I.D.’s and cabin key cards.  Right after checking in we were given gortex-type blue jackets on deck four.

At 18:00 we left the pier and headed out of Advent fjord and then on into Isfjorden.  We were due to arrive in Barentsburg, a Russian coal mining town at 20:30.  At About 19:00 the Expedition Leader, Karin Strand, announced that there was far too much ice for us to be able to reach Barentsburg on time.  Indeed, if we attempted to go to Barentsburg it would also throw our schedule off for the following day at Gravneset.

Cruising in Isfjorden

It is ironic. We had all wished very hard to see lots of ice. It was one of the main reasons for coming to the Arctic.  Perhaps we had wished too hard.  Now the very thing we wanted to see was preventing us from going where we wanted to go.

Since we could no longer go to Barentsburg we held the saftey drill at 20:30.  Right after the drill all of those people that wanted to take advantage of the excellent rubber boots we have on Fram were able to go to decks 2 and 3 where they could try the boots on.  They were then issued the boots which are theirs to keep for the remainder of the cruise.

By that time it was 22:00 and the day was winding down.  The ship is now heading for the old whaling site of Gravneset.  We are due to arrive at 09:00 tomorrow morning.

Virgohamna, Ny-Alesund & A Bear

The hike at Virgohamna

This morning, overcast skies enveloped the rocky terrain in soft shadowless light.  The grey clouds added to the essentially monochrome nature of the land.  A cold light rain was falling as we set foot on a rocky beach not far from the historic site of Virgohamna.  But what is a little rain to grand adventurers such as ourselves?  Ha!  We laugh at the rain. 

Polar Cirkel boat on the way back from Ny-Alesund

We had an option to go on a long hike or to join a shorter beach walk.  In either case we were divided into language groups.  Once everyone from our group was on shore we set off to go exploring.  Each group was accompanied by two members of the Expedition Team.  All of the Expedition Team were carrying high-powered rifles. It was an effective reminder that we were in the home of the Polar Bear. 

Ny-Alesund

We soon came to a vantage point where we enjoyed a nice view of the old whaling station and the famous site where the Swedish Engineer, Salomon August Andrée launched his hot air balloon in 1897 in a tragic attempt to reach the north pole.  We were not able to go right down to Virgohamna as it is protected as an important historic site.  In the distance, we could see not only historic rubble left from the whalers and the aviators, but at least 9 nine Harbor Seals that were hauled out on the opposite shore.

We really had the feeling of exploring.  This was the first time the Expedition Team had taken this particular route.  We were led on a large circuit which eventually took us back to the beach.  The beach was littered with small pink comb jellies (ctenophores) and bits of flotsam and jetsam.  A ten minute stroll brought us back to the waiting Polar Cirkel boats.

Shortly after 10:30 we were all back on the Fram a little damp but exhilarated.  And then, just like the intrepid explorers that tread this land before us, we doffed our gortex and polar fleece layers and headed to the sauna, the jacuzzi, the Bistro and the bar where we could admire the scenery in comfort.

At about 12:20 the announcement came for which we had all been waiting.  A Polar Bear had been spotted!!  Captain Rune Andreasen adroitly stopped Fram and cautiously steered the ship  towards a large adult bear which lay sleeping peacefully in the grass and moss.  In fact it was sleeping so soundly we began to wonder if the bear was sleeping or...  But after a few minutes it raised its massive head and blearily peered in our direction.  What a wonderful sight!  The bear was not bothered at all by our presence.  It rolled over onto its back and then seemed to go asleep once again.  For many people this one ursine encounter was enough to make their trip.

At approximately 16:45 we arrived at the pier in Ny-Ålesund.  The sky was still largely overcast but the rain clouds had moved on.  We were guided through the most northerly settlement in the world in our various language groups.  The Expedition Team informed us about the fascinating history of Ny-Ålesund.  There was the tragic history of the coal mine and the accidents that had happened there.  And there was the equally tragic history of Arctic exploration and the race to the North Pole by air.  It was a saga of heroes, villains and victims.

The near history and the future of Ny-Ålesund is much cheerier.  It has now entered an age of international cooperation for Arctic research.  At any given time there are at least ten nations conducting environmental research there.  The winter population is about 30 but when spring arrives more researchers from various nations migrate to the north.  The population swells to around 150.

By 20:00 everyone was back on Fram.  We cruised the front of the glaciers at the end of the fjord and then turned our bow to head back to Longyearbyen.

Ny Ålesund

Ny-Ålesund in the distance

We arrived in Ny Ålesund at 08:00. The small settlement was originally established as a coal mining operation.  After the collapse of the coal market in 1957 and a series of serious mining accidents the mines were closed in 1962. Since 1964 Ny-Ålesund has been a centre for international Arctic Research and environmental monitoring.  More than 10 countries conduct research here.  During the summer months the population swells from 30 to 150 people.

Exploring Ny-Ålesund

It was a cool morning with overcast skies, excellent weather to go for a short walk guided by the Expedition Team through town.  as we strolled through the village we learned not only about the mining history but also about the great aviators and explorers that are an important part of the history of Svalbard and Arctic Exploration.  Our tour ended at the mooring mast that Amundsen,  Nobile and Ellsworth used to tether their large airships which they would use to reach the north pole.

Old locomotive that was used to haul coal in Ny-Ålesund

Wildlife was in abundance.  Just behind town we could see reindeer grazing.  Around the outskirts of the settlement we saw lots of sea birds including nesting Arctic Terns and one exquisite Ivory Gull.  Certainly one of the most beautiful gull species in the world.

There was ample opportunity to explore the museum, the information centre, to write post cards and to splurge on souvenirs in the gift shop.

Most northerly post office in the world

At 11:00 we were all back on board.  We cast off our lines and began the journey back to Longyearbyen. 

In the afternoon the lecture series continued with talks on ice, polar explorers and whales.  The skies continued to be overcast and the seas were calm.  It was a perfect day to relax and reflect upon everything we had seen and done so far while exploring Svalbard. 

Monaco Glacier and Moffen Island

Sometimes the best thing about Expedition Cruising is simply to jump into a small boat and go exploring.  On a largish vessel like Fram one might not think that would be a possibility, but it most definitely is!  This morning at 09:00 we were anchored off of a very large and beautiful glacier called Monaco Glacier (Monacobreen).  At 09:30 we put the Polar Cirkel boats in the water and went for a cruise along the glacier face.  We cruised along the entire terminus of the glacier.  Five kilometres of brilliant blue ice!

Polar Cirkel boats pushing an ice floe away from the tenderpit 

Along the way our guides talked about icebergs and glaciers and even about the birds we could see all around us.  There were Kittiwakes and Glaucous Gulls in abundance as well as Black Guillemots, Arctic Terns, Northern Fulmars and the occasional Arctic Skua.  A lot of the birds fed along the face of the glacier where the fresh water outflow met the salty sea water.  Large and small chunks of ice would occasionally calve.  When this happened the birds would flock to where the ice disturbed the water.

Monaco Glacier and Polar Cirkel boat, Spitsbergen

Closeup of a small iceberg with Monaco Glacier in the background

Walruses at Moffen Island Spitsbergen (Photo ©Karsten Bidstrup)

In the afternoon we set our course for Moffen Island which would be the most northerly point of our journey. It would take several hours to to get there so we used the opportunity to slot in several lectures on ice and geology.

Moffen Island is a protected nature reserve situated just above 80˚ N.  That is very far north indeed.  To quote a friend of mine, “if you had a globe of the earth you would need to look under the brass cap at the top to find Moffen Island.”

Shortly after 17:00 we approached the tiny island. It was barely above sea level and seemed no more than a sand bar.  However, this low, flat piece of sand and gravel is very important as a Walrus haul-out and is also an important nesting site for Arctic Terns.  Indeed, we counted between sixty and seventy Walruses in three groups packed tightly together.

Well! This was a cause to celebrate.  Not only did we have excellent views of one of the most extraordinary of all pinnipeds but we had crossed 80˚ North at the same time!  

Attacking Arctic Terns

Arctic Tern,  Gravneset Spitsbergen

As we stepped on the beach of Gravneset, deep in Magdalene Fjord it was easy to see why this was one of the most visited sites in Svalbard. The beach was soft sand in some areas and cobblestone in others.  Beautiful jagged mountains rose steeply all around the bay.  Each mountain seemed to support one or more glaciers.  It was impressive scenery

Polar Swim in Gravneset  Spitsbergen

We set out to explore the historic whaling site in language groups.  Each group was accompanied by two members of the Expedition Team that were equipped with radios, flare guns and high-powered rifles.  The rifles were a constant reminder that this is very much the home of Polar Bears.  While we all hoped to see an Ice Bear, the biggest threat at this site today were the protective Arctic Terns nesting on the beach.  Chattering, clicking birds swooped down at our heads in an effort to drive us away from their nests and chicks.  Our leaders instructed us to simply raise a gloved hand over our head.  The birds would attack the highest point.  Their beaks weren’t much of a threat to a gloved hand.

The view from a hilltop near Virgohamna

Gravneset had been used by whalers for over 200 years.  Over that long period of time many whalers died and were buried on a small hill in the centre of the beach.  It was a somber reminder of the tough life they must have endured.

An hour was ample time to explore the area, stretch the legs and get a great breath of fresh air.  Some of the hardier (?) souls braved the frigid water and went for a Polar Dip.  Br-r-r!

Later in the day, at 16:30 we landed on a remote rocky beach opposite to the historic site of Virgohamna.  We were organized into language groups once again and then set off across the island towards Virgohamna.  We were soon at the top of a modest hill where we enjoyed a fantastic view of the old whaling station and the famous site where the Swedish Engineer, Salomon August Andrée launched his hot air balloon in 1897 in a tragic attempt to reach the north pole.  We then headed a little closer to Virgohamna where, in the distance, we could see not only historic rubble left from the whalers and the aviators, but at least nine Harbor Seals that were hauled out on the opposite shore.

All-in-all we spent about two hours exploring the area.

Today had been a fantastic introduction to Spitsbergen!

Our voyage is coming to an end…

One more last sea day! It turned out to be a smooth ride again… and now we are in the Beagle Channel, not far away from Ushuaia, where it all started, 12 days before.

Our captain had one last surprise for us: as we were good in time, he deviated the ship from its course and brought FRAM close to Cape Horn. The Chilean authorities even gave us permission to go as close as 4 nautical miles from the famous cape! A strong wind accompanied us on this careful approach – exactly as we would expect in this place.

In the afternoon, we gathered in the Observation Lounge where the expedition team wanted to check if we learned something at all during our trip. The final exam took place in form of a quiz, and two very strict judges (see photos) made sure that everything went correct! Excellent results showed that indeed all passengers go home with a sound knowledge on Antarctica. And congratulations to boat group number 4, the final winner of this great challenge!



We had the Captain’s Farewell Dinner in the evening, with speeches, the classical Baked Alaska and a good-bye of the MV Fram choir. The captain once more pointed out that a successful trip can only be achieved through good team work and because there are many ever-busy crew members behind the scenes.



Rona, Clarice, Marilyn and Rowena
from reception







For some of them, like the reception girls, these last days of a trip are always the most challenging – all bills have to be prepared and in parallel work for the next cruise also needs to be done.

We all on board MV FRAM hope you have enjoyed this trip with us down to Marguerite Bay and hope to see you soon again on board with us!

 

Dolphins saying good-bye in the Beagle Channel

Hurricane in the Antarctic Sound

Excitement never stops on this trip.

Today it was the wind that really thrilled us. When Anja made the morning announcement, it was still at 7m/s. But rapidly it increased and the sea was full with white horses. Of course a landing was not possible in these conditions. Instead, FRAM went directly past Brown Bluff towards the Weddell Sea and the eastern exit of the Antarctic Sound. The landscape (or should we say “sea”scape?) was beautiful: the blue sea with white caps, blue sky and sunshine and the ship surrounded by big icebergs, including tabular icebergs.

The wind came from behind, so we could stand in the bow and enjoy this fascinating scenery. Later, the wind increased to a Beaufort 12 and as the ship turned, everyone sought refuge in the inside.

We are now leaving this magic continent Antarctica behind us. It has been a unique and unforgettable experience, every day different and full with new impressions.

The ship is rolling and moving as we sail towards the Drake Passage. As most of the passengers are in their cabins this evening, the planned question round with the captain, hotel manager and chief engineer was postponed.

Wow Wow Wow!

What an incredible day!!!

The Port Lockroy girls

It was not a promising start as we had wind, fog and rain in the early morning – but this is Antarctica and the weather changed quickly! Soon, the clouds lifted and we enjoyed beautiful sunny weather the rest of the day.

Our first and only stop was in Port Lockroy – a small and nicely preserved museum with post office and shopping mall. Well, the mall is of course of limited size – but it contains an amazing variety of articles related to Antarctica. Not only the typical souvenirs (T-shirts, stickers, postcards), but also very interesting books (including a cooking book which tells you how to prepare a penguin) and excellent maps.

 Fram meeting Le Boreal in
Wilhelmina Bay

Orcas!

Afterwards, the FRAM sailed through the spectacular Neumayer Channel and in contrast to our first passage, on this passage we could see and truly appreciate the massive glaciers and snowy mountains around us.

Our afternoon destination was Wilhelmina Bay, which according to our expedition staff is the perfect place for whale watching. And it was!!! Orcas, humpback whales, minke whales… surfaced all around the ship! Sometimes we did not even know if to look out at port- or at starboard side, as there were so many animals everywhere!

The fantastic day was concluded with the charity auction of the master chart and then the very entertaining crew show! It is a great show as our crew demonstrated their hidden skills and many of them spend a great deal of their free time rehearsing for our pleasure.

Good morning sunshine!

When we woke up this morning a blue sky and bright sunshine were waiting for us. What a day!!!

Our first landing took place at the Ukrainian station Vernadsky, formerly British and called “Faraday” then. We were allowed to have a look around the inside and outside of the base and saw the different research offices, the radio station, the hospital and the fitness room. Many passengers said: “oh – here I also would like to stay for some time”. But certainly it was not because the fitness room is so well equipped but most surely because of the wonderful bar that we found upstairs! Nicely decorated with bras of different sizes (we wonder who the owner of the XXXXXXXXL one was!) and with an apparently never ending stock of delicious self-made vodka, it seems indeed the place to be in winter time!



In the afternoon, we went ashore on another great landing site: Petermann Island. Surrounded by fantastic scenery, we once more could entertain ourselves with observing penguin behavior. Many fluffy gentoo chicks were around and also some blue-eyed cormorants, young ones and adults. On the other side of the island the view to the iceberg alley was stunning.

With this photo we greet the Indian Hill Elementary School in Cincinatti doing a project on Antarctica!

But the day was not over yet: in the evening FRAM passed the Lemaire channel again – this time in beautiful light and nice weather conditions!

And now, before we definitely can go to bed, there is the famous ice and fruit carving happening in the Observation Lounge. Our very talented crew shows to the speechless audience how they make the most amazing figures out of a block of ice or with a couple of fruits and vegetables.

Penguin Cacophony

The morning was filled with yet another set of interesting lectures. Then, after lunch, we reached the afternoon destination: the Fish Islands. They are a small archipelago of rocky little islands whose more appropriate name should actually be the “Penguin Islands” as they are covered with breeding Adelies. Now, the chicks are almost grown-up, but still – they keep begging for food whenever they can. So when we reached the shoreline, we were not only welcomed by the already familiar penguin perfume, but also by a quite intensive penguin noise. Returning adults calling for their offspring and offspring responding enthusiastically (sometimes even to the wrong parents – but these are normally not very amused about it!).

On the island opposite to our landing spot was another colony of black and white birds. But funny enough – some of these penguins spread out their wings and lifted themselves into the air! It was indeed a rookery of cormorants. Before returning to the ship we had the opportunity to approach these fascinating birds with our polar circle boats. And once more we also got a little iceberg tour which filled our camera chips with another hundreds of photos of bizarre forms, shapes and intensive blue colors.

The day concluded in the Observation Lounge with FRAM’s famous Fashion Show. Officers, Expedition Staff and also some passengers came on the catwalk to present our shop’s collection of jackets, T-shirts, sweaters and even swimming suits (for the next polar plunge maybe?).

Bay Day!

We are now in Marguerite Bay where we spent all day. Early in the morning we reached the southernmost point of our voyage: 68°15’S. Close by we then had our first landing – at stunning Stonington!

As the glacier retreat revealed that there is no connection with the mainland, we know in our times that Stonington is an island. But in former years this place was used as a base to go up to the Antarctic plateau. We can still see and visit the remains of the old American and British stations here.

There was no wind and a mild temperature of 5°C – many of the passengers thought that these were the perfect conditions for a polar plunge! First the thought then the action: we had 23 swimmers who actually dived into the icy waters close to the beach! Congratulations!!!

After lunch FRAM headed back northwards towards our next destination, Horseshoe Island. Again we had the opportunity to walk through an old station from the fifties – now maintained by the Antarctic Heritage Trust of the UK. Tudor Morgan, the Trust’s Operations Manager, whom we had picked up from Port Lockroy a few days before, was very happy that he had the opportunity to do some measurements at this rarely visited place.

In the evening the expedition staff gathered in the observation lounge for a question & answer round with the passengers. Many interesting topics were discussed: penguins, ice, geology… and even the Greenlandic inspiration of the interior design of FRAM was explained!

South of the Polar Circle

We made it! We crossed the polar circle at 10.15 this morning. And for those who do not believe us: have a look at the picture – the photographic evidence clearly shows the ship passing this magic line!

That means we entered someone’s very own kingdom today – Neptune’s kingdom! In person, King Neptune, together with our captain, welcomed us at the bow of the FRAM. And for the brave ones among us he had a special surprise: the polar baptism (ice cubes down our neck)!

According to our schedule, we arrived at Detaille Island during lunch time where we had planned an afternoon landing. However, strong winds made it impossible to go ashore. We could see the big swells and breaking waves crashing against the islands shoreline.

That is when plan B was activated. It consisted in sailing further south towards the famous Gullet Channel. Once a sheltered place was found close to the entrance, our expedition leader announced the alternative program: ice cruising in the polar circle boats!

It was still foggy and overcast, but this is exactly the light you need in order to be able to see the beautiful different shades of blue in the ice. In addition there was the dramatic effect of the light on the sky, the water and the entire scenery. Our Polarcirkle boats turned out to be small icebreakers which pushed their way in between brash ice and among icebergs. Crabeater seals could be seen from a close distance and snow petrels accompanied us in the air. It was a truly overwhelming, breathtaking experience that most of us will never forget!