Humpback whales time!

When approaching Qeqertarsuaq the top of the mountains were covered in clouds. So instead of going vertical towards Lynmarksglacier the long hike group went horizontal in direction of the valley of the winds. But after the bridge we did not follow the red dots towards the waterfall, we looked for the yellow dots and stayed close to the shore-line. Looking backwards we could see the short hike groups walking along the beach enjoying the flowers and the icebergs along the way. After about one and a half hour hiking we had a splendid view over a big part of the shoreline consisting of black basaltic rocks. In the sea were lying numerous icebergs in all shapes and forms. Because we saw them from above we had the possibility to study their shapes and different colors. Just after lunch we agreed on taking on a new experience, 3 minutes of silence. While sitting in the grass and enjoying our first silent seconds we heard this enormous cracking sound...unbelievable the enormous iceberg just in front of us broke in two and we could enjoy the show and sounds that lasted for some minutes. We decided to make some noise by taking pictures and to take the three minutes of silence in another spot. At this same spot we could enjoy the forms and shapes of the basaltic rocks. When the lava cooled down it formed the most beautiful shapes, which we now see in the landscape as plateaus with cut-off basaltic columns and a basaltic columns in the shape of a rose. Nobody regretted the fact we had to change our plans and walk along the coast instead of hiking up towards the glacier.

Today we also continued with our product development by launching a new excursion called: Ice Cruising with chance of Whale  Watching. In the morning and in the afternoon 18 passengers were divided over 3 polarcircle boats to enjoy the ice and in the hope to come close to some of the frequent visiting whales in the area. And what a luck they had! All the boats had to opportunity to see two Humpback whales at close sight. They were very active and not afraid at all. When leaving Qeqertarsuac we were lucky again and spotted several Humpback whales in the vicinity of the ship! What a great experience! At the end of the excursions the most passengers still had some time to walk around in Qeqertarsuaq. This town has around 900 inhabitants (2012) and hunting and fishing are the primary occupations for the inhabintants. At some houses you could see stripes of catfish hanging out for drying.

Blue West 8



Broad-leaved willow



 Early in the morning the brave FRAM lies peacefully at anchor at the very end of the long Sondre Strømfjord.

As a first measure we get unusual visitors: The ground personnel of Air Greenland comes aboard to do the check-in on board of our ship, a very useful service, a floating airport terminal, so to speak. 

Common Cottongrass



It starts pretty early, so not so many words are spoken while waiting in line. After this is done and the first strong coffee, things are getting better and the spirit of adventure gets the better again. About time, because on the pier there are strange vehicles waiting, big and bulky and obviously strong. These will bring the first group of departing guests on the long and bumpy ride towards the ice cap. Interestingly, this dirt road was constructed a long time ago by the car manufacturer VW, in order to test their SUVs on the ice. As soon as the first "ice riders" have departed, everyone else leaves the ship in the Polar Cirkel boats, mounts a shuttle bus and is brought to the Science Centre, "downtown" Kangerlussuaq, our bas of operation for the day. Several activities start from here, be it the guided tour through the town including the interesting museum for the younger history of Kangerlussuaq, the former station Blue West 8. Also from here starts the second round of the ice-road drive, as well as the delicious Barbecue in the afternoon by the lake, where Musk ox burger is served and the mosquitoes also have a feast...Somewhat in-between a familiar aircraft appears in the sky and touches down on the large runway. It is the one that brought us here, now coming in with the next group. Words of envy are audible, for they are heading for the adventure, whereas ours is about to end. However, it was a splendid time, with so many impressions and souvenirs,

 sunshine all over. So there's one thing left to do - come back one day...

 In the meantime, a brand-new and curious bunch of arrivals emerge from the airport and gets shuttled down to the Fjord where FRAM is waiting, ready for another adventure