Christmas
Eve, Scotia Sea, on passage between Malvinas/Falkland Islands and South
Georgia, singing Christmas carols in different languages amongst fellow travelers
from the four corners of the world. Ceremonial celebration on deck seven,
presided by our captain, hotel manager and expedition leader and classical themes
played by our two Chilean musicians. Safe and intimate atmosphere onboard whilst
sailing the stormiest seas on earth. It’s hard to imagine a more dramatic
setting for one of the holiest festivities of the Christian calendar.
Lectures
and briefings filled up the day although not everybody made it to the lecture
halls. We have crossed the Polar Front and we are now officially in Antarctic
waters. And nobody but the weather set
the rules. The ship has been rolling the whole day, maybe a little too much for
those not yet used to southern high seas. But for those comfortable enough with
the rhythmic gentle dance of the Fram, lectures on biodiversity, an icy cold convoy
to Vostok base, explosive harpoons and old whaling station stories added
knowledge into their Southern Ocean experience.
South
Georgia is just below the horizon. We
can’t see it yet but we know that it is there, with its spectacular mountain
ranges, lengthy glaciers and dramatic fjords, its huge colonies of Antarctic fur
seals and King Penguins and its mythical remains related to some of the best
Antarctic stories. Shackleton was there. And so were Cook, Weddell and Larsen.
We are about to land at the Gateway to Antarctica, and with their exploits on
mind enter into a world of legends.
