Guest
blog by Tudor Morgan - Antarctic Heritage Trust
The
morning at Port Lockroy started with a radio call to MS Fram who were anchored
in the bay overnight to discuss the plans for the visit. Fram moved close into
Port Lockroy and held position just in front of the base to make the transfer
easy for the passengers to visit.
Port
Lockroy is a Historic Site run by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust who have a
small dedicated team at the base through the summer months, showing visitors
around the site first sighted by the German Explorer Dallman in the 1870s and
named by the French explorer Charcot in 1903, whaling followed in the 1920s and
30s.
Bransfield House was build as part of a war time operation by the British
in 1944 and was subsequently run as a scientific research base until 1962. The
base is as it was in the 1950s with interpretive material to help the
passengers understand what it was like to live and work there as well as the
important work that was undertaken.
The
expedition team arrived ashore to check on conditions, it was great to see old
friends, Over the years Fram has visited Port Lockroy many times and
Hurtigruten have supported the works of Trust by helping with logistics of
getting cargo to Port Lockroy as well as taking the occasional person to or
from Ushuaia. This is where I come in, I have been helping get the new team
settled in at Port Lockroy and it was time for me to head home with Fram after
the visit.
The
passengers started visiting and due to the size of the main building and island
only 60 people could be ashore at any time, so Line the expedition leader
coordinated with the ship to bring people back and for through the morning.
The
buildings are surrounded by a colony of Gentoo penguins, as there is a lot of
rock around the buildings the nests are far advanced and most now have 2 eggs,
giving everybody the opportunity to see this advanced stage compared with other
landings during the trip. Of course the penguins are just adorable and one can
never take enough pictures! Port Lockroy is also home to a large number of
Snowy Sheathbills who scavenge on penguin eggs, and also clean up after the
penguins. During the visit about 30 birds were counted busying themselves
around the island and keeping a watchful eye on any unsuspecting penguin that
may leave it’s egg. Skuas also nest on the Island and keep an eye out for the
same thing. An mini ecosystem at the doorstep!
Inside
the base the passengers enjoyed the museum looking at the artifacts and living conditions
as well as the opportunity to write and send a postcard home to friends a
family. The small gift shop provides great small mementos of for people to take
home as well as support the valuable work of the Trust as all the profits from
the shop go directly into Antarctic Conservation projects.
With
everyone back on board we sailed south through the scenic Lemaire channel, a
narrow 7 mile long channel cut between Booth Island and the mainland. Peaks
either side rise over 3000ft. The cliffs and occasional peak appeared through
the cloud. After our transit we turned west and went through French Passage and
safe route between low lying islands, we encountered bands of brash and pack
ice and were lucky enough to see numerous seals from the decks including a Leopard.
As
we turned north and headed into the open seas and the motion and reflecting on
the busy past week of landings, lectures and breathtaking scenery meant that
the ship was quiet!
Thank you Captain, crew and all on board for your help and assistance and for taking me back to Ushuaia from this magical place.
