Smith-Sund

00:00 or shortly after. A brief announcement. Bears! Another incredible stroke of luck and a pair of eagle eyes on the bridge brought us two more Polar Bears. Soon the decks were crowded with bleary-eyed but excited photographers trying to capture this golden moment in the ice forever. We all o-o-o-ed and a-h-h-h-ed and photographed to our hearts content. It was a precious moment to be savoured.

After a late night, the 8:00 wakeup call came all too soon. We were happily surprised to find that we were going to go exploring the pack ice in our Polar Cirkle boats! How exciting! The ship was drifting right on the edge of the dense ice pack.
There was not a breath of wind. Ice was everywhere. The sea was like a mirror. Canada lay on our left. Greenland on our right. Soon Polar Cirkle boats were zipping us through the open pack ice. It was a summer/winter wonderland.
By noon, we had all had our cruise in the ice. It was time for lunch and more scenic cruising.
At 15:00 we were visited by Neptune. Many lucky people were chosen to be baptized by Neptune with Arctic water and ice for the privilege of crossing the Arctic Circle by sea. Who knew that Neptune was so cruel?
Throughout the day we saw many seals including Harp and Bearded seals. We all saw lots of seabirds including: Little Auks, Black Guillemots, Northern Fulmars, Ivory Gulls (some say the Ivory Gull is most beautiful of all gulls), Black-backed gulls, Glaucous Gulls and Kittiwakes.
Now it’s more scenic cruising with a constant bear watch!

Siorapaluk

This morning we woke up to flat calm seas and grey skies. The tiny remote village of Siorapaluk, the world’s northernmost natural settlement, lay just before us tucked beneath a beautiful rosy coloured rocky mountain.

Shortly after 9:00 we were all on shore. There to greet us was a welcoming party of
children and some of the adults from the community. It was obvious that they knew the Fram and that we were welcome in the village.
The people of Siroapaluk love it when the Fram comes and very much look forward to visiting the ship. After everyone was on shore we took what seemed like the entire village of 80 people to visit the Fram.
Just before 14:00 several large bags of clothing including brand new jackets, overalls, boots and shoes were donated by the Fram and Hurtigruten to everyone in Siorapaluk. It was heart warming watching the people receive this generous gift.
At 14:30 we bid goodbye to Siorapaluk and set our direction west and then north to the ice. Throughout the afternoon we kept a constant watch for wildlife. At 17:30 the bridge spotted two Polar Bears on the ice. Captain Arnvid Hansen immediately slowed the ship and turned to the port to get closer to the bears. Chief Officer Espen took over the controls and skillfully brought us alongside the now swimming bears. It was a female and most likely a three year old cub.
What a fantastic sight that was. It was truly the wildlife moment that we had all been hoping for.

This evening we continue our journey ever further northward. We will all go to bed dreaming of what tomorrow might bring. Narwhals? A Bowhead whale? More bears?