This Trip Was A 10/10

Photo © Morten Hilmer

Usually there is a wistful nostalgic air to the last landing of any voyage.  I didn’t detect that same feeling today.  I think it is because this has been an outstanding trip.  For a trip in Spitsbergen I give it a ten out of ten.  We have had superlative weather.  We have had the coolest of wildlife experiences (don’t forget those Blues baby)! 

Siselman Hut at Alkehornet
Photo © Morten Hilmer

We have gone on long hikes featuring glaciers and breath taking scenery.  Many people went kayaking.  We have gone cruising in the PC Boats in the pack ice.  We were treated to a feast of lectures.  We have been pampered on board the ship with fine food and amenities like the sauna, jacuzzi and gym.  I think people are satiated. Their quest for adventure at least partially quenched.  Don’t get me wrong.  If we announced one more landing everyone would be lined up.  I have no doubt of that.

Photo © Morten Hilmer

This morning we had a nice long landing at Alkehornet.  There is a large Black-legged Kittiwake colony on the face of a lofty horn-like cliff.  There is usually a herd of Reindeer grazing on the lush grassy plain and today was no different.  There was also a pair of Arctic Skuas making sure no one strayed too close to their wandering chick. 

Photo © Morten Hilmer

At Alkehornet there is a huge amount of space for people to walk about and it was nice to see people taking advantage of that. All told it was a four and a half hour landing.  We started at 09:30 and finished at 14:00.

For the remainder of the afternoon we indulged in some scenic ship cruising and hosted several lectures.  At 17:00 we joined the Captain in the Observation lounge for his farewell speech which was immediately followed by Fram’s charity Auction to raise money for Polar Bear research.

All in all a full day, a full trip.

The Expedition Team!!!
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Burgerbukta and Brepollen, Svalbard

Burgerbukta
Photo © Morten Hilmer

We awoke to an announcement by the captain saying: “The skies are lifting and we are approaching Hornsund, Goodmorning!” As we ate our breakfeast the clouds lifted and we began making ready for the excursions of the day in the gorgeous fjord called Hornsund.

Kayaking in Burgerbukta
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Some chose kayaking and some the glacier walk, both activities were an absolute success.

Glacier Trek at Burgerbukta
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Both groups could see each other, gazing in awe at the fjord from two separate perspectives. 

Polar Bear and People Tracks
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Then we had a Fram cruise in and about “Brepollen (The miriade of Glaciers) while we enjoyed a delicious lunch barbecue out on deck 7. The food was splendid and the surrounding landscapes were an absolute delight to witness. 

As I write this we are preparing for tonight’s fashion show, where all the officers and expedition staff will act as models in front of the guests of the ship. After that the crew has a great show in store for the passengers.

The Magnificent MV Fram Crew Show!
Photo © Morten Hilmer

The Magnificent MV Fram Crew Show!
Photo © Morten Hilmer

All in all - another unforgettable day here at Fram. 

A Family Of Four Arctic Foxes

We had a more leisurely start to our day. It was a pleasure to sleep in just a tad.  After all,  we are on holiday. During breakfast we cruised slowly down the channel between Edgeøya and Barentsøya Islands towards our landing at Kapp Lee on Edgeøya.  We weren’t scheduled to land until 10:00 so that meant we could linger over a second or in my case, a third cup of coffee.

The beach at Kapp Lee is well known as a favoured Walrus haul-out site but as we hit the beach we could see that there weren’t any toothy pinnipeds lounging about at water’s edge.  Too bad, but we had seen many Walrus already and unknown to us this landing was to hold yet other wildlife wonders.

At 10:30 a group of ambitious hikers set off to climb to the very impressive cliff-tops of Kapp Lee. 

Photo © Morten Hilmer

The Expedition Team marked the preferred trail from the landing site and cautioned everyone of the necessity to stay strictly, exactly, precisely, absolutely-follow-in-one-another’s-footsteps on the flagged trail. 

Photo © Morten Hilmer

There was a very real danger of getting stuck in deep, sucking mud and to not be able to extricate oneself.   

It happens every time we visit Kapp Lee.  Some people just don’t seem to believe us until they are stuck in the mud up to their knees.  We know from experience that there are several pairs of boots preserved forever under the mud.  But today was different.  Today was the first time that no one got stuck! This summer has been quite dry and while there were plenty of muddy areas, they were in general easy to avoid.  To tell you the truth I was rather half hoping that someone would get stuck in the mud because those events are much more fun to write about.  :)

Photo © Morten Hilmer

Anyway, back to the hikers and the landing in general.  There were Reindeer foraging widely over the grassy slopes of Kapp Lee.  Just about everyone got close looks at the majestic Arctic ungulates.  They were already sporting impressive racks still covered in a fine velvet.

Photo © Morten Hilmer

Not far from the landing site we encountered a family of four Arctic Foxes.  The young kits were particularly fun to watch as they cavorted with one another and gnawed on bones from a recent fresh kill.  

Photo © Morten Hilmer

The vixen and reynard also engaged in playful activity and occasionally lifted their tails to spray the area marking their territory.  It was certainly one the best sightings of Arctic foxes possible.

Photo © Morten Hilmer

By 14:00 everyone was back on Fram.  We scheduled several lectures for the afternoon.  There was ample time to attend a lecture or visit the gym, or luxuriate in the sauna, or jacuzzi.

At 21:45 we were all invited to the Observation Lounge where some of the ship’s officers and the Expedition Team modelled apparel from the gift shop.  

200,000 Seabirds

Our first landing today was at an old research station called Kinnvika in Murchisonfjorden which was erected for the first International Geophysical Year in 1957.

Kinnvika
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Nine of the eleven buildings they constructed for that project still stand today.  The men stationed at Kinnvika were studying many things including geomagnetism, atmospheric chemistry, observations of the sun, the ionosphere, geomagnetism, aurora and cosmic rays.  They were a small but important part of a global research project involving 60,000 scientists from 60 nations.

Like the air and the clouds above us, the landscape was cold and grey.  

Alkefjellet
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Alkefjellet
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Alkefjellet
Photo © Morten Hilmer

In the afternoon we cruised along the incredible sea bird cliffs of Alkefjellet from the comfort of Fram.   This was the nesting site for 120,000 Brunichs Guillemots plus numerous Black-legged Kittiwakes, and other seabirds.  The total population of birds on these impressive cliffs would be in the neighbourhood of 200,000.  Looking at the birds filling the sky it seemed as if you could see all of them at once.

Walrus at Torellneset
Photo © Morten Hilmer

After the amazing cliffs of Alkefjellet we  landed near a low sandy beach at Torellneset where a large group of male walruses were hauled out in a tight cluster.   It was fantastic to watch the interactions of the huge males as they seemed to jockey for better positions.  Eventually a group of three young males separated from the main group and following the shoreline swam towards us.  They were quite curious and it was wonderful to see for a brief time from just a few metres away.

Walrus at Torellneset
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Magnificent Magdalena on a Glorious day.

Ny Ålesund
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Back in Norway (after a Russian night in Barentsburg last evening) we awoke to a cloudy and foggy day. That soon proved to change for something better, much better. The clouds lifted like the evaporation of fresh dew on a summer morning and revealed a Svalbard day unsurpassed by any other.

Fram at Ny Ålesund Quai
Photo © Morten Hilmer

As we disembarked Fram very little was to be seen of Ny-Ålesund, but on this day, like many others – something higher than our hopes for glorious adventures brings to life something unique and indeed beautiful.  We were expecting to launch our polar circle boats but a call came. The other cruise ship had canceled their arrival.

Tender Pit and Fram Crew
Photo © Morten Hilmer

  

We had the entire city and its inhabitants to ourselves, and the guests thoroughly enjoyed it.  

Sun shine came and the view of the turquoise glaciers blended nicely with the still waters around the fjord. We saw walruses in the evening as we went out of the Magdalena fjord.

Magdalena Bay
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Its been claimed to be one the 100 places to see before you die, and we – here at Fram – wholeheartedly concur. 

Ralf From the Expedition Team
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Nesting Arctic Terns Gravneset
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Beluga Whales, Polar Bears and Blue Skies

Photo © Morten Hilmer

Our day started with an early morning announcement from Karin Strand, our Expedition Leader, “Good morning everyone.  We have a group of Beluga whales outside of the ship”.  Who cared that it was only 06:30?  Many people leapt out of bed, grabbed their cameras and rushed out on deck to see  about thirty beautiful white whales not far from the ship.  And then about 45 minutes later, another announcement only this time a Polar Bear had been spotted on shore.  First while whales and now a white bear.  A really great Arctic wildlife experience. 

What a difference a day of sunshine makes.  What is it about a clear blue day that puts a smile on everyone’s face?  When you combine a sunny, windless day with some spectacular scenery, well, no wonder everyone was smiling all day long.

Kittiwakes in front of Monacobreen
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Today we arrived at Monacobreen at the head of Liefdefjorden at approximately 09:30.  A note to all of you non-Scandinavians out there:  breen means glacier.  Monacobreen translates directly to Monaco glacier. Fjorden is more obvious.

As per usual when we are at Monaco Glacier we put just about everyone in the Polar Cirkel boats to explore along the magnificent glacier front.  Of course we don’t have room for everyone all at the same time but by the end of the morning everyone but the hikers and kayakers had had an opportunity to see the glacier from a close but safe distance.

Glaucous Gull eating a Kittiwake
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Meanwhile the hikers had a magnificent morning to climb to 630 metres to a mountain peak with a really great view of the entire Liefdefjorden.  Needless to say, the kayakers had perfect paddling conditions.

Photo © Morten Hilmer

All of that was followed by a delicious lunch bbq outside on deck seven.

And that was just the first half of the day.

At 16:00 we arrived at the hunter’s cabin in Mushamna.  It is quite a lovely site.  The large cabin was made entirely from driftwood that floated its way here all the way from Siberia.

After the landing at Mushamna we cruised ever further north.  Our goal was to reach the wildlife sanctuary of Moffen Island.  Moffen lies at the lofty latitude of 80º N plus a hair.  No landings are allowed on the island nor is it possible to cruise in small boats.  Upon arrival it was apparent why.  This is critical habitat for walruses.  As we slowly approached Moffen we could see approximately 100 Walrus lying huddled together by the water’s edge.  The waters around Moffen support large clam beds which are the main food source for Walruses.

At approximately 22:30 we crossed latitude 80ºN., a cause for celebration!

At 23:00 the sun was still shining, still high in the sky at close to 45º.

Fog Bound

Once again we were enveloped in a thick blanket of fog.  A sound track of an old creaking sailing ship and sea gulls screaming would have been an appropriate backdrop to our day at sea. 

Even though we had a relaxing day there were plenty of fun and interesting activities to keep everyone engaged.  On every voyage we set aside some time for everyone to visit the bridge.  Invariably that will happen on a sea day.  And since today was a sea day…

A bridge visit is an opportunity to learn just a little about what is involved in navigating a high tech cruise ship like Fram.  Gone are the romantic days of a stoic sailor standing steadfast at the helm struggling with a wheel a metre and a half in diameter.  Nowadays the steering of modern ships is done with a petit joy stick.  A nudge left, a nudge right, a toggle here and there.  I’ve seen video game consoles with bigger joysticks. It is also a chance to get to know the Captain a little bit as he explains the various ship’s systems such as the radar, steering, the engines and the stabilizers.

Photo © Morten Hilmer

 

There are about 40 children on board and there have been programs organized to keep them engaged as well.  For example this morning everyone was busy drawing Polar Bears and then in the afternoon for big and small kids alike, there was the first round of an open table tennis competition.

Photo © Morten Hilmer

Our lectures today included an open air session with the ship’s photographer, a lecture in Chinese and a lecture on whales with Chinese translation.

The activities for the day concluded with a fun fashion show.  As is now the wont on board Fram, the ship’s officers and the Expedition Team modelled many of the items available in the gift ship. And as per usual, everyone had a good time because what the models lacked in poise and grace they more than made up for in enthusiasm.

Knowledge At Sea and the Jan Mayen Climate Voyage.

A sea day onboard Fram is a very pleasant experience. The entire ship becomes a university of knowledge. You choose your learning and subject yourself. Aside from our great onboard library there are lectures, discussion groups, Q & A sessions, debates, movies and much more. During our voyage towards Jan Mayen today our ship was exactly that. The diversity of knowledge being shared was astonishing to witness, some rooms were filled with climate oriented debates and some – with singing. Some rooms simply displayed the magnificent beauty of the ocean we were sailing in. 

Fram is a great learning voyage and this Chinese Climate cruise is no exception.

Today the approx. 40 children visited the bridge where they met an enthusiastic captain who talked about the steering of a ship this big and answered all their questions.

The Captain inspiring the next generation

Photography © Morten Hilmer 

Our photographer onboard (Morten Hilmer) gave a great practical lecture on nature photography on the observation deck. Two lectures where happening alongside these. One about the biology and one on climate change in the arctic.

We reached Jan Mayen at 17 o’ clock local time, its glorious mountains came out of a mist and displayed its remoteness and uniqueness.

Arriving at Jan Mayen

Photography © Morten Hilmer

There were periods of blue sky and sunshine, periods of dense fog and all in between. A truly unique experience. Few people worldwide are able to say they’ve stepped on this remarkable island in the middle of the atlantic ocean. We saw lots of Puffins, Little Aukss, Fulmars and Eider ducks. Jan Mayen is truly worth a closer inspection.

Puffin at Jan Mayen

Photography © Morten Hilmer

We are now on the way towards Svalbard, there’s an accordion playing and the atmosphere on board is very joyful. 

Oh how we wish you were here.     

Travelling With Friends!

I have been looking forward to this trip. A Chinese charter is always a whole lot of fun! Over the years I have travelled on Fram with the Chinese tour leaders and agency owners on numerous occasions. I have even gone to China to visit some of them. Now we are good friends and it is really great to be all together on Fram once again.

Photo © Morten Hilmer

There is a vibe to a Chinese charter that is different from our other voyages. For starters they have been travelling together from China as a group and have already somewhat bonded. In addition there are fourteen leaders and press people travelling with them, organizing everything and helping with the smallest of details.

Photo © Morten Hilmer

When they arrive on Fram, there is always a buzz, hm… maybe an orderly din would be a better description. Lots of laughter, chatter and general organized mayhem.

Now it is day two and we have a nice relaxing day at sea. Everyone is settling into the routines of ship life and enjoying the convenience of having everything done for you. Delicious meals are made and served or made available as a beautiful buffet. Cabins are cleaned and beds are made. Lectures and films are provided throughout the day. If you forget the schedule, there are always convenient announcements to remind you of all activities.

Northern Gannet
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Today we had the added activity of our boot rental program. It is totally optional to use our boots but on a trip like this one to Spitsbergen, just about everyone takes them.

So far we have had good wildlife sightings. We have seen Humpback Whales close to the ship as well as Killer Whales and dolphins.


White-beaked Dolphin
Photo © Morten Hilmer

During the afternoon there were thousands of Guillemots on the sea as well as many Razorbills, Northern Fulmars, Puffins, Gannets, Skuas, Long-tailed and Pomarine Jaegers. We also saw what seemed like millions of small fish at the surface. We don’t know what species they were but best guess would be Herring. With so many Herring at the surface, I couldn’t help but to wonder, why there weren’t whales feeding on them? Obviously they were hard of Herring.

Northern Fulmar
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Chinese Climate Voyage Begins

MV Fram - Ready for new guest's in Rekjavik
 Photo © Morten Hilmer

In Reykjavik we said farewell to our lovely participants on our Greenland voyage and hello to a full ship of Chinese Climate Cruiser’s. What an atmosphere, a new adventure started today. Excited and ready we begin this new experience. After the initial tour of the ship the guests were met by the team of officers in the panorama lounge. The captain and his crew held an informative and moving welcome speech.

Captains welcome speech
Photo © Morten Hilmer

After their talk the expedition crew was introduced. Long laughs were heard when the new guests heard the expedition team had learned the Chinese words for “Hi” “Welcome” “Polar bear” and “whale”.

Chinese Translators being introduced
Photo © Morten Hilmer

We all enjoyed a lovely buffet in the restaurant and as the gorgeous view of Iceland’s landscape slowly drifted past us, whales and dophins were seen in the distant horizon. We all felt very much at home onboard this beautiful ship. Next stop: Jan Mayen.

Island landscapes drifting by, first night of our voyage
Photo © Morten Hilmer