The islands of sheep

Better known as the Faroe Islands, this archipelago consisting of 18 major islands was our last stop on our way to Iceland. Located about halfway between Norway and Iceland, the islands are named after the Old Norse word of Færøerne wich means “sheep”.

A name that is still more than appropriate today as the first thing many of us noticed while driving out of town for the excursion, was the number of sheep and lambs that walk on (almost) every corner of the road! A very nice sight but quite dangerous at times. They also graze on tops of very high and steep cliffs which is a very impressive sight as well. One of our excursions took us to the other side of the main island by bus, to the village of Vestmanna. The bus trip to get there was very nice with stunning views over the fjords and mountains of which many tops were still covered with snow. Once at our destination, we boarded a little boat that took us along the cliff shores North of Vestmanna which was an incredible experience that amazed everybody including staff. Our captain sailed right between cliffs and we were surprised by his sailing skills as we got very very close to the walls. This also allowed us to spot nestling guillemots and the world famous puffins! They were sitting on the cliffs, flying over us and floating on the water! The landscapes we saw along the way were very Jurassic Park – like. Bright green cliffs rising from the water and surrounded by picturesque fog. Everybody had a smile from ear to ear once we got back on the bus to Torshavn. Definitely an excursion  to remember for a lifetime.

Our guided tour of Torshavn allowed guests to discover the city that is the capital of these islands and that has most of the architectural and historical highlights. The tour also included a visit of the southern village of Kirkjubøur which is the country's most important historical site with the ruins of the Magnus Cathedral.

We also had the architecture an wollen design excursion that took guests on a guided walk through the old town of Torshavn. Then they went to a shop where they were introduced to the traditional handicraft techniques of the wool and of course had the opportunity to buy something. Our afternoon consisted of a few lectures to enhance our knowledge about Vikings and volcanoes and the Hardanger embroidery group worked on their project again with our Expedition Leader. We are again heading for open sea on the way to Iceland.

Exploring the Shetland Islands

We said goodbye to Norway and headed for open sea towards the Shetland Islands. Our crossing happened during the night and in the morning, we woke up to the sight of dozens of green islands passing by the ship. Soon after, we were already in Lerwick, the main port here in the Shetlands. With a population of 7500, the town has a cozy atmosphere and is easily explored by foot. This is also the best way to see all the little streets that are too narrow for big vehicles like buses. Our guests were free to roam around and visit the museum, tourist office, shops and notable buildings like the Town hall, Fort Charlotte and the Clickimin Broch.

Many of us also hiked around the town along the coast where many grey seals were lying on the rocks and where tiny Shetland ponies were grazing the fields. The morning was also the departure time for two of our excursions that many of the guests joined. The scenic mainland drive took us to Jarlshof, which is the best known prehistoric archaeological site in the Shetlands. It contains remains dating from 2500 BC up to the 17th century AD. The name Jarlshof meaning "Earl's Mansion" is a coinage of Walter Scott, who visited the site in 1814 and based it on the Scottish period name of "the laird's house". It was more than a century later before excavations proved that there had actually been Viking Age settlements on the site. Walking through the remains of this settlement really allowed us to get a feeling of how these buildings were put together and what their layout was.

The tour also took our guests to Hoswick, where they could get an understanding of the history and culture of the Shetland Islands from the very informative displays. They also sell typical knitwear here and several of the guests grabbed the opportunity to get some locally made souvenirs for home!
Our second excursion took us to the settlement of Scalloway, where we were able to visit the museum and the Scalloway Castle which was built in 1600.

By this time, the sun had come out and the weather got very comfortable. On the way we stopped at a viewpoint, which we also did on the way back where we got to have an idea of how many islands the Shetlands are composed of. Views wear clear and winds were low. Very pleasant conditions to take in the surrounding landscape. Our guide was kind enough to answer all sorts of questions and taught us a lot when it comes to economy and culture of the Shetland Islands. 
Our hotel manager accompanied some of the guests to a place called Jamieson´s of Shetland. It is a local wool shop that has specialised in the wool from the native Shetland sheep for already 5 generations! Again, a good occasion to get some locally made souvenirs. Once everybody was back on-board, it was time again for the embroidery group to meet up to practice their Hardanger embroidery skills. Shortly after, Fram departed Lerwick sailing through the islands with a mesmerizing sunset on our starboard side. It was the perfect ending to our day in the Shetland Islands and a moment to remember how lucky we have been with the weather during the trip.

To celebrate and finish the evening in (Fram) style, we hosted a crew show in the Observation Lounge so our crew could show of their skills and talents for us to enjoy and admire. It was a very cheerful evening and we are very much looking forward to the next days of our trip. 

Our Nasjonaldagen in Norway!

Our day in Olden was one of celebration. Locally known as Syttende Mai, the 17th of May marks the Norwegian Constitution Day and is the official national holiday. Fram arrived in the village of Olden in the morning to spend this special day with the locals. Before going ashore, our captain gathered us outside on the deck for a speech + toast and to sing the anthem.

We all made an effort to wear a nice outfit and some of us even wore the traditional Bunad like almost all of the inhabitants of Olden did. It was then time for a service in the old church of the village which many of our guests joined. The big happening of the morning was of course the parade. This is a tradition for the National Day and we were all invited to join the walk for which we had given everyone a little flag to wave with. It was a perfect way to mingle with the locals and get a taste of how this day is celebrated. Our walk was one to remember.

Smiling faces, cheering children, music and the perfect weather made for a celebration we will not forget. The parade came by the ship that by that time was proudly blowing its horn, which would resonate in the surrounding valleys for almost a minute. We ended the parade at the music pavilion in the "centre" of the village, where we had a few more speeches and took the time to sing more songs.

Most of us took the opportunity to visit the village and the area before going back on the ship. Our Expedition Team members Steffen and Tessa organised a breathtaking excursion entitled: Via Ferrata Loen. The excursion was more of a climb than a walk and offered participants views to remember for a lifetime. The somewhat challenging ascent to the 1010 meter top was described in our excursion Handbook as an "airy" experience. And airy it was.

The steep terrain and the 4 hours of climbing definitely put the fitness of our guests and staff to the test. Judging by their faces and stories once back, the effort was more than worth it. Their pictures speak for themselves. 

Our afternoon consisted of a series of lectures about glaciers, Vikings, and practical information regarding the next day(s). We also served traditional Norwegian dishes in the Observation Lounge for people to enjoy while admiring the scenery we were sailing through.

Karin (our Expedition Leader)´s Hardanger Embroidery group met again to make some progress on their project. They already started cutting out the blank spaces between the stitches, which is definitely one of the most concentration demanding parts of the class. However, this was not a problem as participants were very motivated by the embroidery art they got to see all day on the traditional outfits from the locals. 
To end this day filled with tradition, we organized a Norwegian Folkdance on deck 7 and many of the guests were happy to join. We all had a great time dancing together which was a perfect ending to our National Day in Norway. 

A day in and out of Eidfjord!

Our extra day in Eidfjord turned out to be a great success. Our “Plan B” managed to turn (what seemed to be at first) an inconvenience into a day filled with excitement. Due to the technical challenges we encountered the day before; Fram was forced to stay in Eidfjord one more day, so the Expedition Team (and everyone else on board) worked late hours to come up with an alternative program for our guests. And so we did. Everyone was invited to join us on the famous Flåm Train for which we managed to organize four buses to the terminal.

The ride to the train station was of course a lot longer than the ride we had originally planned, but to make even this part of the excursion worthwhile, the Expedition team came up with interesting guiding information about the area we were driving through. One of the interesting things we saw on this (longer) bus ride is an underground roundabout in the tunnel(s) that go through the mountains. We also crossed the Hardangerbrua, a 1369 meter long suspension bridge over the Hardangerfjord. The bridge opened in 2013 and is longer than the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco! We also drove through a series of tunnels and one of them was more than 11 km long! Norway´s second longest tunnel. On top of all of this, we managed to surprise everyone with two extra stops on the way: The Tvindefossen waterfall and the Stalheim hotel.

The waterfall is said to be 115 meters tall but is likely “only” 110 meters and is famous for its beauty and reputation for rejuvenation and revival of sexual potency! As many as 200,000 tourists from all over the world come here to fill up their water bottles and enjoy the scenery. The Stalheim Hotel is famous for its history and offers spectacular views that are famous from several paintings like “Fra Stalheim” from Johan Christian Dahl.

We also offered our guests a lunch at the reputed Hotel in Flåm which allowed them to get a taste of the local salmon that is of high quality. Like always, the ride to the Myrdal with Flåm was fantastic. 

Down at the start, spring is booming and at the top in Myrdal there is still two meters of snow! At one of the stops on the way up at the waterfall, we were surprised to see Huldra, an astonishingly beautiful woman with raw natural elegance and a seductive figure. Catching a glimpse of this creature of tale was like the cherry on top of our (Flåm) cake, as the French would say. Our other excursion to the Vørings waterfall and Nature center was also a great success. Guests had the chance to go to the Sysendammen Viewpoint for a bird´s eye view over the area. This was a perfect day to do this because of the great weather, making the views crystal clear. As soon as we were all back from the excursions, we invited everyone to the Observation Lounge as we had news to share regarding our technical issues with the propeller. Unfortunately, while looking for a solution, we encountered more issues and it looked like we were not going to be able to leave Eidfjord that evening. On top of that, we were waiting for spare parts and more specialists to come to the ship. Of course we had already worked on another alternative plan which we were roughly able to present our guests at the same time.

Everyone was very understanding and we truly appreciate all the positive feedback we have had. In the evening we held a barbecue in the sun outside on the deck for guests to enjoy. Our Expedition Team member Ralf played accordion and everyone had a really good time. We also entertained guests in the observation Lounge on deck 7 with a Fashion Show! Many of the staff was there to show (off) the quality clothes we have in the shop and that we also wear ourselves.

At the end of the evening, we had very good news to share with everyone. Many of our guests were already sleeping, but as we promised clarity and honesty in this situation, we decided to make an announcement on the PA system in the cabins so everyone would hear. In fact, the technician that got on board just a few hours before, managed to find a solution which allowed us to depart Eidfjord that same night! And so we were on our way to Balestrand to resume our normal program the next day.

A day amongst the fruit orchards

Our first stop in Norway was in Ulvik yesterday morning. Fram arrived in the Ulvikafjorden at 8 AM and we soon started our tender operation with our polar circle boats to bring guests ashore. At the same time, the first rays of sun also made their way over the high mountains next to the fjord, down to this beautiful little village that has just over 1000 inhabitants.

We then began our excursions that started at the hotel where we shuttled the guests to. First to depart was the Farm visit. This tour allowed our guests to learn about (Norwegian) agricultural traditions in the 21st century. After a quick slide-show presentation about (amongst others) the history of farming and a tour around the property our hostess offered us Home-made apple cake with whip-cream and apple juice! Along with the sunny weather, this made for a perfect excursion.

 
Then, a small group of 11 joined us on a walk around Ulvik and a visit to the museum to learn about the life and poetry of Olav H. Hauge, one of the most important Norwegian poets. To give an idea of his influence, his works have been translated into 25 languages! During the walk we also visited the church of Ulvik and a few other places of interest like the Skeiemylna mill situated near the old stone bridge from 1896. Our guide was very kind and knowledgeable and spoke many languages. We had a very interesting tour and learned a lot about Ulvik and its history.  

At noon it was time for us to head to a different location to explore and enjoy the amazing weather even more. Our Agatunet excursion on the western side of the Sørfjorden allowed guests to get a first glimpse of Norwegian spring in all its glory. The soil around the fjords in this area are extremely fertile and therefore perfect for fruit trees. Many orchards can be found here and it turns out we are here at the perfect time as all the apple, cherry and prune trees are blossoming now. Many types of bees are flying around here and the aromas of the awakening nature really add to the experience. Our walk along the fruit trail in Ullensvang was a perfect way to witness the Norwegian Spring as well. We were all overdressed and ended up carrying our jackets and fleeces around our waists. 
In the early evening we set sail for Eidfjord where we arrived earlier than expected. Guests were able to go ashore and a few of them did. Most enjoyed an evening in the Observation Lounge while listening to music from our musician Bjørn as we will be able to spend the next day in Eidfjord as well. The weather forecast for the trip looks rather good and we hope we get to enjoy more sun on our spring adventure here in the Norwegian fjords. 

Whiskey Cruising!

After leaving Dover on Sunday, it was time for another sea day to Norway. Once again, we were sailing the North Sea past the oil platforms in the company of several big cargo/container vessels. The weather was in our favor again as the wind was almost absent and the sun was shining bright. Perfect conditions to spend extra time on the decks to enjoy a few drinks and gaze into the distance over the hypnotizing waves of the North Sea. Our sea day was a very informative one as we had several lectures planned during the day. Guests were able to learn many things about Norway, Polar Regions, Fram, our planet in general and our upcoming day in Bergen.

During the morning, we also had one group for a bridge visit. This is always a perfect way for people to get a better understanding of how the ship works and get a glimpse of what goes on “behind the scenes”. The captain welcomed us and started by explaining what all the big screens and buttons are for. Amongst other things, he gave us interesting facts and figures about the ship´s fuel usage and electricity production. After his introduction, guests were free to ask him all sorts of questions that he was happy to answer. Then it was time for everyone to walk around and take some pictures to show family and friends they have indeed been on the bridge of MV Fram!
The Observation Lounge was also the place to be in the evening as we had another whiskey show with tasting hosted by our two Scottish oldies Bernie and Beastie! Their passion and entertaining skills made the evening (once again) a big success and a perfect last evening for our Whiskey Cruise. In the afternoon it was time for a Norwegian delicacy in the Observation Lounge: freshly baked waffles! Our crew definitely managed to get everyone´s attention with their culinary venture as the irresistible smell was making its way through several of the decks. Staff and guests were all enjoying the waffles with whip cream and several sorts of jam while listening to live music from our musician Bjørn.

Sailing The North Sea

Our day at sea started with a few Bridge Visits on deck 6. Guests were able to sign up and meet us in groups so we could visit the Bridge and ask the captain all sorts of questions. It is a very interesting experience and a unique chance to get a look "behind the scenes".

 
Our extended lecture program gave everyone the opportunity to learn about the principles of navigation, the North Pole, the Fram, the Norwegian outdoor life, and a lecture from our guest professor lecturer entitled "Beneath the Waves".
On our way to Dover we sailed passed dozens of big oil rigs and wind mills. The North Sea obviously still has plenty of available resources like fossil fuels, wind and wave power. 
The captain also held a farewell cocktail in the Observation Lounge as it was our last day on this trip. After a toast, we all sang a song together which is always a very nice way to end the trip together.

After a last dinner in our restaurant, it was time for some last packing, maybe a drink in the Qilak bar and off to bed. After all, tomorrow we will be in Dover where it is a new start for both the passengers and the crew!

How to "Friluftsliv" in Norway!

On the (very) early morning of Thursday, many of us were already out on the decks to enjoy the fresh air and admire the 229 meter high Feigumfossen on the southern side of the Lusterfjord.

A very eventful and sportive day was awaiting us in Urnes/Luster and Balestrand. A day filled with outdoor activities in close contact with nature, which the Norwegians would describe as a Friluftsliv day (an "outdoorlife" day). This started with a Kayak Adventure in the morning and a (somewhat) a challenging walk up to the Stave church in Urnes.

This is Norway´s oldest and best preserved stave church which still stands in its original location that offers impressive views over the village and the Lustrafjord that surrounds it. Those who joined our excursion were welcomed inside the church for a "guided tour" and were allowed to take a few pictures. Guests could also have a look inside the visitors centre that is located nearby. The 5 snakes we saw last week on the little wall not far behind the church were hiding amongst the rocks to keep warm. The sun was not as present yesterday as the week before so they did not come out as much to warm up their bodies. Only a few of us have seen the female snake that the two males were fighting for last week.

Fram arrived in Balestrand in the afternoon and we soon started our tender operations to bring everyone on the pier where we served local cheese Gamelost (old cheese) for an hour. This was also the place where two of our excursions started: The Cultural Village Walk with the Cider House and the hike in Balestrand mountains. The village walk took guests to some of the beautiful villas that the artists built here and to the Kvikne Hotel, which is Norway´s largest wooden building.

The tour also went to St. Olav´s Church, which was completed in 1897 and is more or less a copy of the Norwegian Stave churches from the Viking age.

The hike up in the mountains was not as easy as our regular hiking excursions. The track up on Balestrand´s most painted Esefjellet mountains is for adventurous people who like a challenge and the breathtaking views from the top as a reward. The winding path in the forest and the physical challenge really made us experience the Friluftsliv!
The afternoon was also perfect for an other Kayak Adventure which really put the large cliffs next to the fjord into perspective. The way back was quite challenging as the wind and the currents had picked up and pushed us back the wrong way.

During the evening, Noel, Michael and Nestor from the galley entertained us in the Panorama Lounge with a show where they carved fruit, decorated cakes with marzipan and folded napkins in the shapes of flowers and swans!

An interesting ending to a very successful day. Remember everybody, go outdoors, breath the fresh air and challenge yourselves! Live a Friluftsliv life!     

A stroll in the Valley Of Roses

We visited the village of Rosendal yesterday, in the company of our good friend: the sun. Our guests were shuttled ashore with the help of our polar circle boats.

Once on the pier, everyone noticed the tranquillity of this place. There was a very peaceful vibe and many flowers in the fields and gardens around us. Rosendal is located on the southern shore of the Hardangerfjorden and has 768 inhabitants. The economy relies on ship building, agriculture and of course, tourism. It is most known for the Barony of Rosendal, an estate and manor which history dates back to the 1650s.

From the pier, most of our guests took a right turn into the village to visit the information centre, do some souvenir shopping, sending their post cards and head up into the valley to have a look at the stone park. Rosendal was also the starting point of our Bondhus Lake and glacier arm excursion. From the pier, guests could join a bus ride that took them to Sunndal along a small part of the Maurangerfjord. On the way they went through several tunnels and saw a big waterfall that is very close to the road.

The walk took our guests through a troll-like landscape with big boulders covered in moss and streams with little waterfalls on every corner. The impressive and serene Bondhus Lake was their target at the end of the walk.

They then headed to Ola Løa where traditional Norwegian "Lefse" and "Melkekake" was served along with coffee and tea. 
The other excursion guests could join was the Rosendal Shipbuilding & History Tour. The local guide took us to the museum of the ship building and told us about the restoration work that is being carried out using traditional techniques and assisted by modern technology.

 
Our Expedition Guide Ralf went on a little Kayak Adventure with a small group during the morning which allowed them to explore the area from a unique perspective.
The afternoon started with a cruise through the scenic Hardangerfjord. Those who were standing outside on the decks enjoyed the scenery passing by and captured nice photos. Our lecture program informed passengers about the formation of fjords, the ice & environment changes and the upcoming days and the excursions that they might join.

In the evening, we got very close to Bergen and sailed under the famous Askøy suspension bridge. Many of us where standing outside to catch a glimpse of Norway´s second-most populous city. 
We finished the day with a traditional evening in the Observation lounge where Expedition Team member Olav taught us a few Norwegian Folkdances. Many of the guests joined us and we had an amazing time together!

Our first day in Norway!

Yesterday morning, Fram arrived at the first stop of this trip: the city of Stavanger. It is considered today to be the centre of Norway´s oil industry.

To introduce everyone to the facts about this industry and the role it plays in this area, our guests could attend a lecture called “Norway as a Petroleum Nation” in the morning. This lecture was followed by a Kayak briefing for those who would like to join our Kayak Adventures in the Norwegian Fjords.

Fram arrived in Stavanger at noon.

We were greeted by locals standing along the shore, some even  waving the Norwegian flag! In combination with the great weather, this made us feel very welcome in this beautiful city. As soon as the gangway was down, people went exploring the city, it's picture-perfect Gamle Stanvanger (Old Stavanger), and the peaceful Breiavatnet lake in the city centre. Even though it was Sunday, some shops were open which allowed us to do some first souvenir shopping.

Our excursions started soon after arrival and guests had the chance to choose between two tours. The Stavanger Panorama Tour took us by bus from the pier to the outskirts of the city. Stops included Hafrsfjord, where a historical sea battle was fought and the Ullandhaug Tower from where we had a bird's eye view over the city, its surrounding area and the Ryfylke Fjord. The weather was a lot better than during our last trip here so we were blessed with clear views! On the way back, the bus dropped us of in the old part of Stavanger, so we could see the more than 150 well preserved wooden houses built at the end of the 17^th century.

From there we went to the impressive Stavanger Cathedral which was built out of stone in the 12^th century by Bishop Reginald from Winchester, England.

The second tour, the Walk in the Old Quarters also took us from the pier to the old Stavanger but by foot. This allowed us to learn more details about the city itself and historical buildings on the way. Our local guide Bernt even showed us some very interesting things that barely anyone notices when walking through this city. We for example got to see a staircase exclusively built for ducks to be able to come out of the water during spring when they have chicks, who would otherwise not be able to climb on shore. Bernt also told us that when the police isn't too busy, they come to this place to escort the ducks safely across the streets! One of the stops on this walk was Stanvanger's Canning Museum where we were able to see how (for example) fish was canned and exported to over 40 countries in 1920. We even had a little tasting session at the end of our tour, which was very nice.

 The good weather and the friendly locals made this Sunday a big success. Everyone got back on board with a big smile and ready for our Dinner Buffet in IMAQ Restaurant.

Our evening consisted of sailing back and forth in the scenic 42 km long Lysefjorden. The weather was clear enough to see the two top attraction of this fjord that are also amongst the most visited tourist attractions in Norway. One is called Preikestolen.

It consists of a steep cliff which rises 604 metres (1982 feet) above the fjord with an almost flat top of approximately 25 by 25 metres (82 by 82 feet).

The other one is a boulder located in the Kjerag mountain and called Kjeragbolten. The rock itself is a 5 m³ glacial deposit wedged in the mountain's crevasse. It is a very famous photo spot for tourists.

We were all standing outside on the decks to admire the scenery with perfectly clear views and almost ideal lighting for pictures. It was a great ending to our first day in Norway and we are very much looking forward to the next ones!