Grytviken

Early this morning, it seemed that we were not going to be as fortunate as yesterday in Fortuna Bay: we awoke to a white-crested sea stirred by strong gusts of wind, which would not let us disembark on Grytviken. It was a stark reminder of just how much and how quickly weather can change around here… The powerful winds lasted all morning and everybody on board MV Fram had the same question in the back of their minds: will we be so close yet so far away from this place? Will we not be able to pay our respects at Shackleton’s and the recent Frank Wild’s tombs? Will we be forced to just look at the beautifully and photogenically rusty remains of the whaling station from afar? To many, this was the highlight – the purpose even – of the trip, so it was a long morning, not daring to lose hope nor to speak out the unspeakable: we’ll have to set sail en route to Antarctica without setting foot on Grytviken…

 

But just as quickly as the weather turned nasty, so it cleared in a minute and before we knew it, there was hardly any breeze at all and the sun started piercing through the clouds – and we all felt sunshine in our hearts, because that meant we could land!

Evidently, everybody first visited the famous graveyard where Shackleton, the famous explorer, lies next to his friend and second in command, Frank Wild, who only quite recently (November 2011) was interred to his right. Having fulfilled this modern, Antarctic pilgrimage, we explored the derelict whaling station, the beautiful Norwegian wooden church that several used appropriately to have a short, personal Christmas experience, and finally, the interesting museum. Naturally, we had a further opportunity to witness just how feisty fur seals are, how rotund elephant seals are, and how yummy both are – for giant petrels.

We ended the day, happily sailing away from South Georgia, content in the knowledge that we had been to Grytviken…

Fortuna Bay, Shackleton walk, Stromness

On May 20^th, 1916, Ernest Shackleton, Tom Crean and Frank Worsley, arrived at Stromness whaling station after a 36 hours strenuous hike from King Haakon Bay. The first crossing of South Georgia was the last chapter of the Endurance expedition, a dramatic voyage of exploration that ended up as one of the greatest adventures of the Heroic Age. Shackleton did the hike ninety six years ago and we repeated it today. Not all, of course, but the last five kilometers, the distance between Fortuna Bay and the old Norwegian whaling station of Stromness.

In Fortuna, a sheltered bay in the northern coast of South Georgia, we enjoyed ideal conditions for landing, with no swell, no wind, and no precipitation. An amazing walk through hundreds of territorial fur seals lying on the beach was the starter for what was coming next: a spectacular colony of more than seven thousand pairs of King Penguins packed together at the foot of cliff.

After the landing, MV Fram departed for Stromness, leaving ashore the passengers that had signed up for the hike. An easy walk along a gentle slope up to Crean Lake, three hundred meters above sea level, were followed by mostly flat terrain till a small ridge perched above Stromness valley. A short but very steep descent to the foot of the valley and we made it! Christmas day 2011 will be remembered by all as the day in which we completed the last stretch of a legendary expedition.

MV Fram was waiting for us by the whaling station and with it our fellow passengers that decided to sail with the ship. More king penguins, more fur seals and more elephant seals set in front of the decaying remains of the whaling station and the day was over. We are now at anchor at Cumberland Bay. Shackleton is in our minds. Tomorrow, at Grytviken, we will close his story.

Christmas Eve on the Scotia Sea

Christmas Eve, Scotia Sea, on passage between Malvinas/Falkland Islands and South Georgia, singing Christmas carols in different languages amongst fellow travelers from the four corners of the world. Ceremonial celebration on deck seven, presided by our captain, hotel manager and expedition leader and classical themes played by our two Chilean musicians. Safe and intimate atmosphere onboard whilst sailing the stormiest seas on earth. It’s hard to imagine a more dramatic setting for one of the holiest festivities of the Christian calendar.

Lectures and briefings filled up the day although not everybody made it to the lecture halls. We have crossed the Polar Front and we are now officially in Antarctic waters.  And nobody but the weather set the rules. The ship has been rolling the whole day, maybe a little too much for those not yet used to southern high seas. But for those comfortable enough with the rhythmic gentle dance of the Fram, lectures on biodiversity, an icy cold convoy to Vostok base, explosive harpoons and old whaling station stories added knowledge into their Southern Ocean experience.

South Georgia is just below the horizon.  We can’t see it yet but we know that it is there, with its spectacular mountain ranges, lengthy glaciers and dramatic fjords, its huge colonies of Antarctic fur seals and King Penguins and its mythical remains related to some of the best Antarctic stories. Shackleton was there. And so were Cook, Weddell and Larsen. We are about to land at the Gateway to Antarctica, and with their exploits on mind enter into a world of legends.

Georgia on my mind

Georgia, oh Georgia… Not quite the same Georgia the song aludes to, but everyone on board had it on their their minds today: we’re heading towards South Georgia. And that entails some preparations, which we began today. For a start, we explained our passengers the Antarctic code of conduct they have to follow, and we also vacuum-cleaned our backpacks and other gear to minimize the risk of introducing seeds, bugs and other biological aliens to these far-away lands.

We did all the preparations in relative calm, because we were lucky to have the wind blowing from astern: that is, from behind, which means we’re making very good progress with the help of the winds, and we’re not rocking too much, which is always a welcome thing.

Calm seas also meant the Captain invited several guests to visit the bridge, where he explained how to operate a rather complicated piece of machinery: MS Fram.

Pretty much all day long, we were also treated to the majestic flight of wandering albatrosses following the ship – a fantastic background scenery against which to enjoy a beautifully aromatic cup of tea and start preparing emotionally to arriving to the Jewel of the South, and maybe take part –weather permitting- in the Shackleton walk we want to make with our passengers, following the last epic leg of the famous adventurer’s hike from Fortuna Bay to Stromness. Definitely, Georgia on my mind…