Siorapaluk

This morning we woke up to flat calm seas and grey skies. The tiny remote village of Siorapaluk, the world’s northernmost natural settlement, lay just before us tucked beneath a beautiful rosy coloured rocky mountain.

Shortly after 9:00 we were all on shore. There to greet us was a welcoming party of
children and some of the adults from the community. It was obvious that they knew the Fram and that we were welcome in the village.
The people of Siroapaluk love it when the Fram comes and very much look forward to visiting the ship. After everyone was on shore we took what seemed like the entire village of 80 people to visit the Fram.
Just before 14:00 several large bags of clothing including brand new jackets, overalls, boots and shoes were donated by the Fram and Hurtigruten to everyone in Siorapaluk. It was heart warming watching the people receive this generous gift.
At 14:30 we bid goodbye to Siorapaluk and set our direction west and then north to the ice. Throughout the afternoon we kept a constant watch for wildlife. At 17:30 the bridge spotted two Polar Bears on the ice. Captain Arnvid Hansen immediately slowed the ship and turned to the port to get closer to the bears. Chief Officer Espen took over the controls and skillfully brought us alongside the now swimming bears. It was a female and most likely a three year old cub.
What a fantastic sight that was. It was truly the wildlife moment that we had all been hoping for.

This evening we continue our journey ever further northward. We will all go to bed dreaming of what tomorrow might bring. Narwhals? A Bowhead whale? More bears?

Dundas / Thule

At last we seemed to be getting some truly Arctic summer weather. Or was it the onset of autumn? The skies were grey. The wind had picked up and so had the seas. Indeed the wind was gusting over thirty knots. The expedition team set out at 8:45 to prepare the landing site and to scout for Polar Bears. We watched from the Fram as the expedition team bounced across the waves to the beach only to return to the ship shortly after. They were all somewhat wetter than when they had departed. The landing seemed to be in jeopardy due to high wind and waves. It seemed luck was blowing in our favour. Soon the wind abated and the expedition team set out again. By 10:00 the landing site was secure and we started the landing process.
First on shore were the hardier souls that were going to climb to the top of Mt. Dundas. On a scale of 1-5 it was rated a 10!
Soon enough we all on shore exploring the ghost town. It was not officially the fall but autumn colours were showing strongly. The northern willow was turning bright yellows, red and orange. The grasses were turning shades of yellow and brown. The last of the niviarsiaq was still in bloom but past its prime. It wasn’t hard to imagine the first snow flurries beginning soon.

A day at sea: Melville Bay

A day at sea. A time to relax and a time to learn about where we are and where we are going. Today was cool temperatures, calm seas and overcast all day. Perfect for attending the many lectures that were scheduled for us throughout the day. Amongst other topics we learned about polar ecosystems, ice, whales, and the history of Greenland. The many lectures were followed by informative briefings on our upcoming landings at Dundas and Siorapaluk.
During the day there were a couple of cetacean sightings. It wasn’t until we examined our photographs later that we realized we had seen a pod of Long-finned Pilot Whales! Quite probably they were at the northern extreme of their range. What would we do without digital photography?
At 21:30 we were treated to “Jazz Music and Evergreens, An Evening for Solo Piano” by Henrik.

Uummannaq

Uummannaq is a beautiful place. The small fishing community is situated on the sea with a very impressive heart-shaped mountain looming over it. While Uummannaq does mean heart-like or heart-shaped, today we thought it looked more like the profile of a man

with a toupee looking up.
First off the ship were those of us going to the desert. The excursion boats picked everyone up right at the ship. There were hundreds of icebergs, if not thousands of icebergs on the way to The Desert.
At 10:30 many of us headed to shore where we explored town, visited the museum, and explored the authentic turf huts just in front of the old church. The museum looked particularly lovely today with a carpet of daisies growing all around it.
Some of us opted to eat on shore at the Uummannaq Hotel where they served an excellent buffet of authentic Greenland food. Here you can get muskox, salmon, char, minke whale and many other Greenland foods.
At 13:00 we all met on shore for our hike that would lead us right past Uummannaq Mountain (the man with the bad hair piece) on our way to Santa Claus’ summer home. Up and down and around we scrambled over the rocks. And who did we find at Santa’s place? Not Santa Claus but our expedition leader, Anja Erdmann and our Hotel Manager Else Kristine with some very welcome hot chocolate, coffee, tea and cold water which they had delivered by our speedy Polar Cirkle boats!
At 16:30 we were all back on the ship and looking forward to a pleasant evening of scenic cruising as we continue to make our way north.

Qeqertarsuaq

The Fram dropped anchor at approximately 8:30. Shortly after 9:00 our Polar Cirkle boats were zipping people to shore. We gathered outside of the small museum located just beside the dock while we waited for our shipmates to arrive before beginning the hike to the Valley of the Wind. What a great day for a hike. The temperature this morning was a cool 11˚ C - perfect.

Soon we were walking through the sleepy Saturday morning community and heading to a dark sandy beach on the edge of town. Here several icebergs were grounded, patiently waiting for high tide when they could resume there stately journey propelled by the prevailing currents. It was a perfect place to stop for photos. There were many Greenland dogs along the beach area. The expedition team informed us that the Greenland dog is not only one of the oldest breeds of dogs in the world, but also one of the purest.
Soon our hike led us to a soccer pitch that was being prepared for a very important match later in the day. The championship match for all Greenland! It was Uummannaq and Qeqertarsuaq in the final. The pitch was well groomed gravel. Not a blade of grass was growing on that field. Very carefully, the gravel was rolled, watered and chalked in preparation of the afternoon's big game.
We pressed on into the rolling hills behind town. Very impressive deep brown stratified cliffs of volcanic origin rose in front of us and to the sides. It was definitely inspiring scenery. Before we knew it we arrived at the waterfall where our hike ended. We all paused for a few more photos and took the opportunity to rest up before starting to hike back to the ship.

The ship set sail at 16:00. It was a beautiful evening for scenic cruising. We admired hundreds of icebergs as we headed to our next adventures in Uummannaq and Ukkusissat.
Stay tuned for more adventures in Greenland tomorrow.

Sisimiut

At 10:45 we dropped anchor just off shore from Sisimiut. Another ship, the Bremen, was tied up at the only available space along the pier. At 11:00, first off the ship were those of us going to the ghost town of Asaqutaq. Shortly thereafter our Polar Cirkle boat operations began. It was a quick ride to shore and a beautiful partially cloudy day to explore Sisimiut.
When exploring Greenland there are constant reminders that this is still very much a hunting and fishing society. Just outside of the dock area were three Greenlanders selling cariboo meat. Hunting season for cariboo and muskox begins in August. Piles of cariboo meat were placed neatly on flattened cardboard boxes on the side of the road. Just along the sea wall there were two fresh cariboo hides.
Just after our historic hikes to Tele island began at 15:00, the Bremen set sail and the Fram moved to the pier. It was a great day for a hike and our World of Greenland guides, Christina and Jorn educated us on the early Dorset and Thule societies that first occupied the area. Our hike took us by the local kayaking club where young Greenlanders are keeping the art of building Greenland style kayaks alive. Just before we left the dock at 18:00 we were treated to a kayaking demonstration. The two kayakers were obviously very skilled.
What a great way to start our travels in Greenland

Kangerlussuaq

Touchdown - Kangerlussuaq! Greenland at last. The journey we had all been dreaming about was beginning in earnest. As we entered the airport terminal we were greeted by the expedition team from the MS Fram. In short order we were escorted to the buses that would take us to the ship. A fifteen minute ride through barren rolling hills terminated at a small dock that seemed to be in the middle of nowhere. The excitement mounted in anticipation of boarding the Fram. Our new home for the next two weeks lay at anchor just 1km off shore. But first, on shore side, we were given a brief introduction to life jackets (it seemed like fighting an octopus with all of those straps!) and Polar Cirkle boat procedures.
Once onboard we were very efficiently checked in, photographed, issued ID cards and shown to our cabins. Later, when we arrived to our buffet dinner, it was very obvious that we were not going to lose weight on this trip!!
At 22:30 we took part in a mandatory drill which was followed by a welcome from the Captain and an introduction to the ship’s officer’s and expedition team.

Whew! What a long day!

Itilleq

It was a beautiful day to cruise south to Itilleq. Our morning was filled with lectures and bridge tours. Captain Arnvid Hansen was a very entertaining host. It was great to see the auto pilot system, radar screens, computers, communication station, fire station and all of the other sophisticated equipment on the bridge. It was fascinating to learn that the steering control for the Fram was not a great wheel like one might expect. No. To steer the Fram there is a tiny 10cm joy stick, just like the ones used in video games!
At 13:30 we arrived in Itilleq. We dispersed through town and went to our various rendezvous for a kaffemik. Each of us was given a colour coded ticket to join a local person in their home for coffee and cake. The coloured tickets ensured we went to the right house!
Coffee and cake. Caffeine and calories. Just what we needed for the soccer match that started at 15:00. It was an excellent game with the result being a tie.
Perhaps next week we should drink just a little more coffee.
By 17:00 we were all once again comfortably ensconced in the Fram.
Our evening was completed with a farewell dinner and a very warm speech from the Captain.
What a fantastic trip this has been!

Uummannaq and Illorsuit

The weather continues to be tailor made for adventures in Greenland. It was another cool sunny day. Absolutely perfect for our hike that started at Santa's summer home and ended in Uummannaq. We posed for a group picture at Santa's small green turf hut and then headed across the barren landscape that surrounds Uummannaq. A long line of blue jackets stretched across the rocky landscape as we followed the pink dots that marked the trail to town.
On the edge of town we were greeted by Greenland dogs. On some of the houses there were Harp Seal skins hanging on racks for stretching and drying. On other houses there were muskox skulls and caribou antlers. Greenland style dog sleds parked in the front yard for the summer were a common sight.
After the hike we had time to return to the ship for a scrumptious buffet lunch and explore Uummannaq on our own.
At 14:30 we lifted anchor and headed to our next stop for the day: Illorsuit. Illorsuit is the smallest community we visit and today was the only time the Fram stopped there. It was a special occasion. Today was their 150th anniversary. We invited the people from Illorsuit to the ship where they entertained us with singing and dancing. They also put on a small Greenlandic Fashion show modelling traditional clothes for us. The intricate workmanship in the clothing was very impressive.
At about 21:00 we headed to shore in our Polar Cirkle boats. It was a wonderful experience to explore Illorsuit and interact with the local people. A few small kids followed us while we wandered along the beach. A small dance floor and band stand had been set up for the evenings celebrations. There was more singing and dancing and plenty of opportunity to wander about the little village.
Clearly this was a hunting and fishing community. There were two minke whale skeletons lying on the far end of the beach at the edge of the village. The whales had been butchered cleanly and the meat distributed to everyone. Many houses had whale meat and fish drying on the front porch - right next to the laundry!
A crowd of children helped us with our life jackets and waved goodbye as the last Polar Cirkle boat left shore at 23:00.
We will all go home with very fond memories of our evening in Illorsuit.

Qeqertarsuaq

It is always very special to have our first day with ice. Lots of ice. Stately icebergs were our constant escorts. The approach to Qeqertarsuaq was quite dramatic with rocky shoals on both sides of the ship. We carefully and slowly navigated through the narrow entrance to our anchorage spot beneath the beautiful stratified cliffs that provide an impressive and extremely beautiful backdrop to the small community.
We dropped anchor at 9:00. Soon we boarded the Polar Cirkle boats and headed to shore to start our hike to The Valley of The winds. A short walk through town lead us to a beautiful dark sandy beach. Greenland dogs lay snoozing in the warm morning sun. A handful of small fishing boats were pulled up beyond the high tide line. There were large icebergs quite close to shore. Small bergy bits had washed onto the beach. We were warned to avoid going right down to the water's edge as large waves from collapsing icebergs were always a hazard.
Our hike terminated at a beautiful waterfall. It was a perfect place to catch our breath, relax and enjoy the majestic scenery.
By 12:30 most of us were back to the ship for lunch. There was still plenty of time for us to eat and then explore Qeqertarsuaq on our own.
At 15:30 the last boat left shore. Soon we lifted anchor and headed north once again.
It was a perfect evening for scenic cruising. Not a breath of wind. Plenty of blue sky and sunshine. And hundreds of icebergs.
Tomorrow: Uummannaq and Ukkusissat.

Sisimiut

Fog bound. It's a weird feeling to be cruising in the fog when you realize that the ship's officers are 100% reliant on electronic gear such as radar, GPS and Loran-c. As a brand new state of the art expedition cruise vessel, the Fram is equipped with an impressive array of navigational aids. This morning our visibility was cut to less than 100 metres at times. The seas were calm. There was next to no wind. We were wrapped in a dense sea fog.
Just before 11:00 we turned the ship's bow towards Sisimiut. As we got closer to shore the fog began to lift. Soon we were under clear blue skies once again!
Many of us went on a boat excursion to the abandoned village of Asaqutaq. En route we saw a humpback whale! It is prime season for viewing whales in Greenland particularly Humpback whales. The whales are here for one reason - to eat. Just outside Sisimiut harbour in the peak of summer, Humpbacks are a daily occurrence.
Whatever we chose to do today, whether it was the historic hike to Tele Island, a boat excursion or explore town on our own, we had a perfect day for it.

Kangerlussuaq

Greenland at last!!!
We were met at the airport by several members of the Expedition Team from the MS Fram. After a short bus ride through the rocky landscape surrounding Kangerlussuaq we arrived at the pier. A dock in the middle of nowhere!

We were all tired after a long day of travelling. For many of us it was two days to get to Kangerlussuaq. Despite being a little road weary it was quite exciting to see the Fram at anchor in Kangerlussuaq Fjord. Our new home for the next week!
We were introduced to Polar Cirkle boat procedures and life jackets and then whisked to the ship.
Once on the ship we were very efficiently checked in, photographed and then issued ID cards. We were also shown to our cabins. At 20:30 there was a mandatory safety drill after which we were welcomed by the Captain and introduced to some of the key members of the ship's compliment.

Now it is time to kick back, relax and explore Greenland.
Tomorrow's adventures await in Sisimiut!

Itilleq

Warm sunny days + cold ocean temperatures = sea fog. This morning started as a nice sunny day with little wind. As we started the first of our seven bridge tours the wind began to pick up and the seas built. We noticed Fram rocking gently with the motion of the ocean.
At 9:00 the first of seven bridge tours started. It was a real treat to visit the bridge and meet Captain Arnvid Hansen and our Navigation officer Munish Jamwal. The Captain was an excellent host patiently answering all of our questions about the ship and posing with us for photographs.
By the end of the our bridge tours - late in the morning, we were cruising through moderately heavy sea fog.

But by 13:30 as we dropped anchor at Itilleq the fog parted and we headed to shore in our Polar Cirkle boats. The people of Itilleq are gracious hosts inviting us into their homes for coffee and cake.
Last week Team Fram defeated Team Itilleq in our friendly weekly soccer match. A rare occurence. This week they were ready for us.
Team Itilleq 7.
Team Fram 6.
As always, win or lose (mostly lose) it is great fun. Fun for those playing and fun for those cheering.

Ilulissat

Ilulissat is sometimes referred to as the capital of Northern Greenland.
Being well above the Arctic Circle, Ilulissat enjoys the midnight sun from May 21 until July 24 and during the winter the sun does not break the horizon between Dec. 1 and January 12. On January 13 many folks from Ilulissat go to Holms Bakke to see the first sunrise in six weeks.

Ilulissat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (and deservedly so!) and we devote the entire day to our visit to this picturesque community.
Our day in Ilulissat was filled with sunshine. Everyone took full advantage of the glorious weather. Lots of people chose to combine the hike to Icefjord and all of the attendant beautiful icebergs with yet more icebergs via a boat excursion to Icefjord or a helicopter trip to the head of the fjord. After all of that there was still time to explore the town, visit the museum, pet a Greenland puppy or two, inspect fish drying in the wind, go shopping at Pissifik, sample beer brewed locally, or try a cappucino at one of the cafes.