Sea Ice

Longyearbyen welcome us with so much sea ice that we have to turn north. We continued to Krossfjord and had some good looks at the glaciers there. Lilliehøøkbreen among one of them. The day after, we went ashore on Ny Ålesund. There we learned a lot about the town today. All the science that they work on. The different countries that operate here in this fabulous place. But we also learned about the old days with the mining.


In the afternoon we continued to Kongsfjorden and went ashore on Gravnestet and had a small hike. Here we had a chance to we Rose gull that is a rare bird. But also when we exit the fjord we saw a female polar bear with a baby.

In the evening we went for Moffen and 80 degree north. There was a small heard of male walrus here. And we stayed in the midnight sun for an hour. Today we again go for Longyearbyen and now we need to get in. because the cruise is ending and the guests will leave tonight. If we have the chance we will land at Skansebukta. But only if we have the time. It all comes to how much sea ice there is in Is fjord. We end up with barbeque on deck tonight entering and slowly cruising in the ice fjord toward Longyearbyen.

 

Seadays on our way to Spitsbergen

Today we have a minute's silence in memory of those who died in the terrible attack in Oslo and utøya.

Yesterday we had a full day of lectures and learned lots around the area we are sailing to. We ended the eavning with the traditional fashion show. This morning we continued with the talks and we will go more into the flora and fauna on Spestbergen. We will arrive in Longyearbyen later this afternoon. This two seadays we just had the most amazing weather. Calm sea, just a little wind and now it also seams to be sunny.

Jan Mayen

Finally it’s the day for visiting Jan Mayen. This very unusual little Island with the volcano and its glaciers. Onboard we have lectures that been working on Jan Mayen during their time as researchers. We first had a day full of lecture before our visit Jan Mayen. That made us more curious about this place. And we also knew a lot about the basics about the Island.

Five a clock we prepared for the landing. It’s a beautiful day with almost no wind. We arrange to get every guest ashore. We first hade a visit to the main station and then further down to the weather station were we got information about the station and the things that they do research about and information about how the station is functioning and the main task with this weather station. Both building - stations had flag at half mast for the tragic attack that hit their country.

Some of us went on a longer walk together with our lectures that earlier had their own research on Jan Mayen. So we really had a god opportunity to learn about this island and about the unic place. And also about the volcano and the glaciers around it.

After a couple of hours we went back to the ship and started to go for Longyearbyen. During our way out we also had the chance to see the volcano as the clouds eases up. This really was over our expectations. On our way out with FRAM we also spotted a couple of Minky whales playing around. A lot of birds following the ship on our way north…

We leaving Jan Mayen in a beautiful weather.
The Vulcano and the top of it with the sunny sky.

Condolences

Yesterday evening we got the horrible news from Norway. We followed the news and the guests send there condolences. Onboard this Norwegians ship with a majority of Norwegian guests this strike us all very hard. We arrange a table for the condolences. The thought goes to all the families and the country of Norway.

The seaday

A day at sea and the weather is still with ous. This day has been a day with alot of wildlife. Dolphines, humpback whales, fulmars, kittiwake an a lot of other kind of birds.

We learned a lot about Jan Mayen as a vulcanic island, about the golf stream and about plate tectonic. And we are ready for more. The forcast looking good. Hope for the best tomorrow.

The climate cruise 2011

The climate cruise has started. Onboard some of the expedition team from the Greenland season went home and the Svalbard team is on board. We have three guest lectures onboard to. All with different angel on the climate discussions in there lectures. 

The guests came onboard in the afternoon after some interesting excursions in Island and Rejkavik. Some went to the golden circle and had a walk around the worldfamous Gaysir area. Its a geothermal field where hot springs are in abundance, geysers explode and pools of mud bubble.

Then some had a visit to the blue lagoon and had a relax for body and soul.

We then left the harbor at 19.00 in a beautiful weather. We all are very exiting about the fact that we’re maybe able to get onshore on Jan Mayen. But we also know that it’s depending on the weather condition. The eavning we hade the saftydrill and a velcome sermoni for all guests following FRAM to Svalbard.

The Centre of the Earth

Snaefellesjokull Iceland

Once again we awoke to bright blue skies and sunshine.  Stepping out on deck in the early morning the air felt warmer.  Our destination was the town of Grundarfjordur, a prosperous little fishing community on the south west coast of Iceland.  

Iceland coast near Grundarfjordur

It was still several hours of sailing time before we reached the tiny port. This presented us with an opportunity to see what "A Year on Fram" might be like.  In the Polhogda and Framheim lecture salons, the staff gave a presentation about the other exciting destinations the ship visits during the rest of the year.

By late morning we could see Iceland in the distance.    As we got closer to the coast we could see the lava fields and volcanic formations for which Iceland is famous.

Even though it is a small community, the little harbour in Grundarfjordur is well equipped and has a beautiful dock easily capable of accommodating a ship as large as Fram. High volcanic cliffs rose around the town.  It is a lovely harbour and a very well kept community.  One did not see so much as a stray gum wrapper on the ground.

At 13:00 the ship was cleared and we were free to go on shore.  There were several excursions offered including a bus tour of "the highlights of Snaefellsnes" a boat tour of Breidafjordur and a tour of the "Lava Trails and Viking Tails".

Being a huge fan of the science fiction writer Jules Verne, I was very excited to be going on "the highlights of Snaefellnes".  Snaefellsjokull was made famous by Verne when he wrote in his story, "The Journey To the Centre of the Earth" that the entrance to the centre of the earth was located at Snaefellsjokull.  (Note: jokull means glacier in Icelandic).

Throughout the 5 hour trip we had magnificent views of the famous glacier.  We had many photo stops including an Arctic Tern colony and a beautiful colony of nesting Fulmars and Kittiwakes that had some extremely cool lava formations.

At 19:30 we arrived back at Fram just in time for our last delicious buffet.


In the evening we all enjoyed a really fun quiz in the Observation Lounge about Greenland which was presented by the Expedition Team.

Today was really just a taste of Iceland. It was so beautiful and such a nice experience that I think it left many of us wanting a whole lot more. Some of us would definitely be back.

The Denmark Strait

Captain Arild Hårvik

The Denmark Strait is the body of water that lies between Greenland and Iceland.  It is approximately 480 km long (300 miles)  and 289 km wide (180 miles) wide at the narrowest point.  It can be a rough body of water. Sometimes violent storms rip through the Strait. Sometimes, like today, it can be smooth sailing.  We certainly have lucked out with the weather on this voyage.

Like yesterday today was a good time to enjoy the ride.  To enjoy Fram.  After all, the ship itself is a major part of the holiday.  An excellent way to get to know the ship is to go on a bridge tour.  This morning we were invited to the bridge in language groups where we met Captain Arild Hårvik.  The Captain was a very informative host.  He explained how the navigation process works and also talked about some of the more interesting aspects of the ship's design, such as the bulbous bow and the wing-stabilzers.  

There were also many interesting lectures throughout the day.  

In the afternoon the smell of waffles filled the air!  If you followed your nose, the scent led to deck seven.  Hot delicious waffles with maple syrup, whipped cream and fresh fruit. OMG!  S-o-o-o good!

At 17:30 we were agin invited to the Observation Lounge for the Captain's farewell speech and a farewell cocktail. After the speech, the crew, along with the Expedition Team and the officers joined together in singing some farewell songs.

At 21:45 a charity auction was held in the Observation Lounge to raise funds for the children of Greenland.

It was a very relaxing day but there had also been plenty for us to do!

It Takes Work to Create Rest

Left to right:  Jasmin, Olive and Janet

Henson

It will take approximately two days for us to cross the Denmark Strait on our way from Greenland to Iceland.  Two days to rest from our many landings and excursions in Greenland.  Two days to start sorting through photographs and memories.  Two days to catch on reading and napping.  Two days to make use of many of the ship's facilities such as the gym with the best view in the world, the sauna, the jacuzzis or the Observation Lounge and Bar.  Or two days to broaden your mind and attend the ongoing lecture series. Behind the scenes, the ship's complement is working hard to make sure your rest and the other activities you choose to do, go as smoothly as possible. 

In the first photograph are three of our hard working dining room staff.  You will also find them sometimes in the Observation Lounge serving drinks and at other times making sure cabins are clean.  

In the second photo is Henson.  Henson is part of the large staff in the galley.  He helps to make sure the buffet is constantly supplied and does much of the cooking for the crew.

We are a merry team of 83 people with many different functions ranging from Captain, to Chef, to Engineer, to Expedition Team, to Laundry man. 

If you don't notice us, it is because we work as a team and everyone is doing their job well.

Aapilattoq

Why is it that much of the most breath taking scenery on the planet is found in some of the remotest hard-to-get-to places on earth?  Such is the case with Prins Christian Sund.  At 07:00 we entered the 55 mile meandering channel.  Tortured, jagged mountains on either side of the ship ripped blue patches into the sky. Each turn in the channel brought a new spectacle and a renewed sense of astonishment.  What is it about the combination of towering mountains, waterfalls, reflective seas, icebergs and blue skies that causes the jaw to drop?  It seems to be a universal thing.  Transfixed people stood with open mouths on the outside decks throughout the morning.  Nearly everyone wished for bigger memory cards for their camera.

Just before 13:30 we arrived at the tiny community of Aappilattoq probably the most picturesque community in all of Greenland.  Certainly it should be a contender for the most scenic village in the world.  I don't exaggerate. 

There was a confirmation in the village today so many people were wearing their best clothes and perhaps already in a celebratory mood.  The villagers welcomed us with enthusiasm.  There were tea, coffee and cakes available in the school.  Children demonstrated folk dances in the village centre. Many people were deeply moved when the choir sang on the front steps of the church.  It was a powerful experience and one that is difficult to describe.  

Just behind the village, huge chunks of ice were stranded on the beach at low tide.  It was wonderful to walk right up to the beautiful blue mini-icebergs.  These photographs would be this year's Christmas cards. 

It was an inspiring day. Everyone was savouring their brief moments here. We were all reluctant to leave.  But inevitably at 17:30, it was time for the last Polar Cirkel boat to leave. We waved good-bye and it seemed as if the whole village waved back.

It was absolutely the best possible way to end our great adventure in Greenland.  Ahead, new adventure awaits.  We still have lots to discover in Iceland!

Sometimes Change Is The Only Constant

We knew from the ice charts that getting to Narsaq and Qassiarsuk would be a challenge.  The Captain and navigation officers did their best to get us there but it just wasn’t possible.  The sea ice had moved south along the east coast of Greenland and had totally choked off our entry point for Narsaq.

In the meantime the Expedition Leader and the Captain had come up with an alternative plan.  We would head further south towards Prince Christian Sound.  Along the way, if weather and ice permitted we would visit the old Viking settlement, at Ikigait.

As we followed the edge of the pack ice we encountered hundreds of seals on ice floes. There were 10 or 15 seals hauled out on some of the floes. Most of the seals were Harp seals but scattered here and there were Hooded Seals either solo or in pairs. 

A great part of the day was spent cruising through heavy fog.  Navigation officers really don’t like fog, nor do they like heavy ice conditions.  In these kinds of conditions we are always forced to reduce speed in order to navigate safely which of course pushed our arrival time at Ikigait to 19:30.

As we aproached the coast the very dense fog dispersed. One could almost hear a chorus of angels sing as the sun burst through the clouds illuminating our landing site in sunshine!

Now that we were so much further south we actually had to consider at what time would the sun set?  22:00 was the answer.  This left time enough for everyone to explore the old Viking ruins.

Much to our surprise several small boats from a nearby settlement came over to say hello and to offer some beautiful seal skin craft work for sale.

Shortly after 21:30 everyone was safely back on board the ship.

Tomorrow’s destinations:  Prins Christian sund and the village of Aappilattoq.

Ivittuut

Ivittuut: view from the tea house in the abandoned mining settlement

We were not due to arrive in Ivittuut until 14:00.  That left plenty of time in the morning for lectures.  In fact there were no less than seven lectures between 09:30 and 13:00 in three different rooms, in three different languages, by four different lecturers.

As we approached the old mining site of Ivittuut we scanned the grassy slopes for Muskox.  It was well known that this is an area they frequent.  Sure enough we spotted at least ten of the wooly beasts.  Two of them were close enough to the shoreline for everyone to get a good look at them.

As we dropped anchor, our Expedition Leader Anja spotted a muskox walking towards the very museum we wanted to visit!

The Expedition Team went to shore first to establish a safety perimeter.  The team was watching not only for muskox but also for Polar Bears.

Apparently the muskox that was heading to the museum was a regular visitor and was somewhat used to people.  He continued straight to the back yard of the museum and seemed to be content to browse on the Willow shrubs. 

After about an hour the muskox had finally had enough of people and with a snort, bolted off towards the hills.

Ivittuut:  Cryolite (white) and Siderite (brown)

Ivittuut is an abandoned cryolite mine and was most active during world war II. After Denmark was occupied by Germany in the 2^nd World War, Denmark was no longer able to defend or to supply Greenland.  An agreement was made with the United States that the U.S. would take over those responsibilities for the duration of the war.  As partial payment the united states were allowed to mine for cryolite.  At the time, cryolite was highly valued as an essential ingredient in the process of making aluminum.  Since then cheaper alternatives have been found.  In addition, after the war there wasn’t the heavy demand for aluminum. Eventually the mine was shut down.

Today there is an amazing rock and mineral museum with fine examples of many minerals from Greenland.  The old buildings still stand.  It was really great to wander around the abandoned houses.  We could see white chunks of cryolite and sparkling brown siderite everywhere! 

The Capital City

Greenland is on a different scale.  It is the biggest island in the world.  It has the largest national park in the world. That same park is the most northerly park in the world.  It boasts the second largest ice sheet on the planet and has the most productive glacier in the world outside of Antarctica.  It is also the least densely populated country in the world.  We cannot help but use our own experience to try to make sense of the things we see around us.  A capital city with a population of 15,862 people seems extremely small by our standards, but according to Wikipedia there are 56 capital cities in the world that are smaller than Nuuk!  (Capitals by population) . More than 25% of the total population of Greenland lives there.    Not surprisingly, Nuuk is also the cultural and economic centre of Greenland.

As we approached Nuuk the sun was once again shining.  The clear blue skies were back!  It was another perfect day to explore Greenland.  We were alongside the pier at 09:00.  Shortly thereafter a shuttle started transporting people from the ship to the National Museum.  The shuttles ran back and forth, every thirty minutes throughout the day.  In the addition to exploring the fine museum there were lots of other options available such as boat trips up the fjord, a long hike, a City tour or just explore the capital on your own.

At 15:30 we were all back on board Fram.

In the late afternoon there were lectures available in English, German and Danish as well as information sessions regarding the plans for tomorrow.

 

Sisimiut

Greenland Kayak Sisimiut   (click image to enlarge)

During the night...  hmm...  can one say, "the night" when it never gets dark in the summer?  Anyway, during the night the weather changed.  This morning it was a little cooler at 5˚C and completely overcast.  Nevertheless it made for very good hiking conditions and I was beginning to get low on sunscreen anyway.  

We arrived in Sismiut at 10:00.  15 minutes later the first excursion for the abandoned village, Assaqutaq, departed from Fram.  The overcast conditions added to the eery atmosphere in the ghost town.  It was easy to imagine the village full of people.

Shortly after, at 10:30, the hikers going on the long hike to Palaasip Qaqqa Mountain departed.  The summit was obscured by clouds.  We wondered what it would be like going into the fog and if we would be able to make it all the way to the top.  It turned out to be magical.  The hikers ascended through the cloud layer and into the sun.  It was like sitting on top of the world looking out over a vast expanse of fluffy white clouds, 360˚ around you.

Greenland Kayak Demonstration        (click image to enlarge)

Throughout the day there were several departures by small boat for Assaqutaq.  Hiking groups went on the historical hike to Tele Island.  Most people took the opportunity to explore Sismiut on their own.  Many people, chose to visit the fine museum which is well known for its excellent exhibits on the Paleo-eskimo Saqqaq culture.

At 15:45 everyone was back on board the ship.  Just before we left we were treated to an outstanding demonstration of kayaking skills right beside the ship.  There are about 35 different ways to roll a kayak: with a paddle, without a paddle, with a short paddle, paddle behind your back, with one hand, etc., and we witnessed many of those methods.  We all wondered how comfortable it was in the ~6˚C water!   B-r-r-r!!

In the late afternoon there was time for lectures which were presented in English, German and Danish.  As usual there were also informative sessions about our plans for the morrow.

At 21:45 we attended a fashion show that was probably quite different from any other fashion show in the world.  In the MV Fram fashion show it is the Expedition Team  and some officers (including the Captain) that model the clothes.  These were definitely not professional models.