Wednesday, 10 July 2013

Heading South

Fog in the morning
Humpback in the way
Wildflowers are taking over
After this unreal ice experience we had yesterday it seems that there is something missing in the ocean now - not a single piece of ice is in our way as we steam towards Sisimiut. Dense fog has settled on the sea instead, only revealing about 30-40 meters of surface at a time. The foghorn sends its mighty sound into the misty world around us, it feels like being suspended in the Great White Void.
Children painted a welcome sign for Assaqutaq
What would have cause any ship in the old days to drop anchor and wait until the visibility comes back is not a problem anymore in the 21st century, where GPS and radar give us a fairly good image of landscape and position. So with practically no delay we arrive at the second biggest city in Greenland and - go to pier, which is a real treat, no boat shuttles needed.
And, like pre-arranged, the fog is lifting considerably. So all the excursions are a Go: The long distance hikers take off to conquer Palaasip Qaqa, a steep viewpoint mountain on the northern side of Sisimiut Fjord. Shortly after the various other activities are launched, like the city tour by bus (which is such a rare thing in Greenland!), the tasting of Greenlandic food, including the legendary fish soup, and the really charming tour to the abandoned village Assaqutaq , which was crowned by the sighting of whales on each and every single trip.
We leave under the silver glow of the late afternoon light, sighing in front of so much beauty. 
And just before midnight there is an announcement...this can only mean one thing - whales again. But not just the odd whale in the distance, this time it is a whole pod in a feeding frenzy, breaching, bubble-feeding, moving back and forth just in front of our bow. The decks are swarming with people in shear awe, some moments in life are so significant you will always carry them with you...