This is now our third day in Antarctica
and we have found lots to do in the South Shetland Islands. This chain of
volcanic islands is moving away from the Antarctic Peninsula a few centimetres
a year as a result of seafloor spreading. The active volcano called Deception
Island is a result of this continued tectonic activity.
After spending a bumpy night in the
northern-western part of the Bransfield Strait, we sailed into the flooded
caldera of Deception Island in the early morning. The wind was howling outside
but once we were inside the caldera, it calmed down. Pack ice from last winter
had piled up in Whaler’s Bay but a portion of the beach was open enough for us
to land. You really have to pinch yourself when you land at this place-
remember it’s a ACTIVE volcano that erupts at regular intervals. It is time for
another one based on how long it has been since the last. Evidence of the
volcanic activity was in the form of steam rising from the beach, a sulfur
smell in the air and hot water just below the surface of the black volcanic
sand. As usual there were some Gentoo Penguins on the beach and at the end of
the landing, a few were able to watch a Leopard Seal lying on an ice floe.
Deception is famous for its Antarctic swimming opportunities and a few brave
souls ventured in to the frigid waters. Behind the beach, we explored the
outside of an abandoned British base and the oldest whaling station in
Antarctica, dating from the early 1900s.
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| Pack ice in Whaler's Bay |
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| Leopard Seal |
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| Leopard Seal |
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| Marsel van Oosten |
Coming back out of Deception through
Neptune’s Bellows is as impressive as going in with the high volcanic cliffs
and the sea stack on one side, and colourful rock and snow on the other. Once
out, we headed for our second landing of the day at Walker Bay on nearby
Livingston Island. By the time we reached the bay the winds had dropped and all
we had to contend with was a moderate swell. However, the Expedition Team was
able to find a safe place to land on the beach. This landing was like none we
had done before on this trip with the beach dotted with Elephant Seals and
Southern Giant Petrels nesting and roosting behind the beach. Most walked up to
see the fossil collection made from the area and on display. The Elephant Seals
were mainly younger males but there were a couple of huge bulls with their big
“blow-up” noses, and a young “weaner” lay on the beach on its own. It’s
incredible how these young seals can become independent of their parents at
such a young age and without any help learn to be an Elephant Seal.
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| Young Elephant Seal - 'weaner' |
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| Elephant Seals - FriedaPhoto |
Some went on a Polarcirkel boat cruise
around the bay and got excellent views from the water of the rich Antarctica
oasis of Hannah Point with its green vegetation and breeding penguins and giant
petrels.
So overall our day was fantastic with a
good mixture of beautiful scenery, geology and wildlife. Stay tuned for more to
come!
