What a sudden contrast: The heart-shaped mountain of Uumannaq is shrouded with clouds, snowflakes are dancing. Finally a real Arctic Impression... So the brave hikers that leave for Santa's Cabin put on gloves and shawl before we make for the interior. Glaciers have worked on the mountains as if they were caressing them just long enough to look smooth and gentle. After a while we descend towards Santa Clauses' Hut, a surprisingly simple green sod house down in the bay. Knock, knock - nobody home. Maybe Santa is on vacation (Expedition cruise..?), still we can see his cosy home before we hike back. Those who stayed in Uumannaq have had their sightseeing tour and their traditional Greenlandic food already, so everybody aboard and heave the anchor. In the evening nature shows us who rules in these parts: The bay of Ukussisset is filled with freezing pancake ice, so the tender boats nearly get stuck. Change of plan: We take the few villagers over to Fram where they sing for us, dance for and with us, and teach us about their life. A night to remember!
