Stunning Stonington and Happy Horseshoe

After an evening spent going around Adelaide Island we crossed Marguerite Bay in the early hours of the morning, arriving at Stonington Island at 08:00. The bright polar sun shone down on the calm sea. The surrounding scenery of glaciers pouring down to the sea between magnificent mountains left everyone speechless before we even got off the ship.

Stonington Island is home to abandoned British Base E and American East Base. Both bases now historic Sites and Monuments protected under the Antarctic Treaty. We enjoyed walking around the buildings and hearing stories of past endeavors of the former inhabitants. The majority of work relied upon easy access to the mainland, and when the ice ramp deteriorated, the British base was closed in 1976. (The American base was only opened for a very brief time in 1946-7).

We saw at firsthand the magnificent power of nature as a large chunk of ice fell in front of our eyes into the sea making the gap between Stonington Island and the mainland even bigger.

The island is now home to breeding Antarctic Terns, Skuas and some stranded Penguins. Some of the more crazy of us tested the water temperatures for a very quick swim.

 We reached our afternoon destination, Horseshoe Island (which actually is H-shaped and not as its name states) is located East of Pourquoi Pas Island and is home to British Base Y. This station was built in 1955 to replace Base E  Stonington Island after the access by ship to Stonington was found difficult. It was mainly used during the 1957-58 International Geophysical Year and abandoned afterwards. It remains a time capsule of life on a base in the 1950s with a real sense of feeling of its occupants not long moved out.

Many Weddell Seals were resting on the island and on the remaining sea ice in Sally Cove and we got the chance to see them from very close. This location was also perfect for many activities, so we took advantage of it and some of us went kayaking, others had a closer look at the icebergs while cruising on the Polar Cirkle Boats, and a fortunate bunch even spent a glorious night camping on the island. The weather was just perfect! We all left Horseshoe Island with a happy smile.

Passing the magic circle!

This morning we passed the Antarctic polar circle! After passing the circle we got a royal visit of King Neptune himself. All the passengers, and some of the crew, were welcomed to his Kingdom by a baptism on the outside deck. It was a cold welcome!

After lunch we had planned a landing on Detaille Island. Unfortunately, due to wind, we could not go through with our plan. The landing was cancelled and Fram headed south. We had an amazing view while we were breaking our way through slush and ice, incredible icebergs and seals surrounded us, and the sun managed to break through the clouds.

During the day a lot of Snow Petrels could be spotted from the boat.

Tomorrow we will arrive at Marguerite Bay- the most southern point a cruise ship has been this season. We are wondering how the ice conditions will be when we get there. 

The Penguin That Everyone Wants to See, AN EMPEROR!

EMPEROR PENGUIN molting on Plenneau Island

Our morning started with a landing on the White Continent itself.  At 08:30 the Expedition Team headed to shore at Almirante Brown in Paradise Bay.  This is a base that belongs to Argentina.  Today there was a few Argentina personnel at the base.  Setting foot on the actual continent of Antarctica is a very special thing.  For many people on the ship this is their seventh continent. 

Leucistic Gentoo Penguin chick.

Most people took the opportunity to walk up a beautiful snow-covered hill where there was a terrific view of glaciers and Paradise Bay.  At the bottom of the hill, by the base there is a small Gentoo Penguin colony. One pair of penguins had a leucistic chick and a chick that had normal pigmentation.  The leucistic chick was beautiful tones of very light brown.  

During our landing a Humpback Whale paid a visit to the ship.  It came within 10 metres of the tender pit and seemed rather curious about the ship.

By noon everyone had had a chance to set foot on shore and it was time to head for our second landing of the day. At 14:30 we reached the north end of the Lemaire Channel.  There was lots of ice in the channel with many Crabeater Seals on the ice floes.

Just on the southwest side of the Lemaire lies Plenneau Island and some of the best small boat cruising on the entire Antarctic Peninsula.  The area between Booth Island, Plenneau Island and Port Charcot is always chock-a-block full of icebergs.  

Instead of a landing we went cruising in the Polar Cirkel boats in the ice.  It was superb. 

Crabeater Seals Near Plenneau Island

There were Crabeater seals everywhere!  And, as if we weren’t already having a fantastic day with a lucky sighting of a leucisitic Gentoo Penguin chick, there was a lonely Emperor Penguin molting on Plenneau Island.  This was a rare opportunity to see THE PENGUIN.  The pengiun that everyone wants to see.  

By 19:30 everyone had had their turn cruising in the ice and Fram turned her bows to the south once again.

Today was an absolutely amazing day.  We all wondered what tomorrow held in store.

Preparation day

We woke up to a very calm Drake again, so everybody was in good shape and spirit to attend the mandatory IAATO briefings and vacuum clean the outdoor clothing and equipment in preparation for this trip's first landing. We sighted land at approximately 12pm and sailed through the Nelson Strait to reach our destination, Half Moon island.

We were greeted by rafts of swimming penguins and a few whales. Half Moon Island is located to the east of the larger Livingstone Island, which belongs to the South Shetland Islands archipelago. Relics of a bygone age are present in the form of an old whaling water boat abandoned on the beach. It is now designated a Historic monument.

As soon as the Captain put down the anchor we got underway with our landing, those more intrepid amongst us went snow shoeing and kayaking. On the Island we were greeted by 3000 pairs of Chinstrap penguins and their cute fluffy chicks. The chicks around 4 weeks old and starting to creche in groups. Food must be plentiful in the oceans because on most nests both chicks are waiting for their next feed looking very healthy. The thick down coats are starting to molt creating some very street wise haircuts.

We returned to the ship for a well earned dinner and drink reveling in our first close penguin encounters and relating storied of the animal behavior to each other and looking forward to seeing different species in the days to come.

Evening entertainment was provided by the MV Fram fashion show. The models strutting the latest fashion wear from the on board shop. Although of course the models are professionals they are not models but we all had good fun and this finished our first day in Antarctica on a high.

The Drake lake

Today was a sea day where we sailed over part of the Drake Passage. King Neptune has been good to us and given us a smooth ride this far. 

During the day there were different lectures, some of them about whales, penguins, as well as a political and geographical introduction to Antarctica. During the day a boot shop was set up in order for passengers to rent boots in good time before our first landing. If everything follows the plan we will have our first landing on Half Moon Island tomorrow evening. The day has been mostly cloudy, but for a couple of hours after lunch people could enjoy the sun on the outside decks.

Some were busy photographing the different birds we could spot from the deck. Even though we are far from land there is quite a lot bird-life to see. During the day we spotted several kinds of seabirds, such as the Wandering Albatross (which has the biggest wingspan of all birds), Giant Petrel, Antarctic Prion and Cape Petrel. After dinner there was a movie called “Frozen Seas”.  I think we are all really excited to reach Antarctica tomorrow!

The Beagle Channel

The Beagle Channel

Once again we are underway, cruising east on the Beagle Channel. It is a beautiful evening.  The sky is mostly overcast but the setting sun periodically manages to highlight the mountainous landscape. There is lots of wildlife to appreciate on the Beagle.  Southern Sea Lions inhabit various islets as well as nesting South American Terns and thousands of Cormorants. It is also possible to see our first penguins as Magellanic Penguins nest on several of the islands.  The eager anticipation of our guests onboard is almost palpable. It is for most people a trip of a lifetime. 

Earlier today Ushuaia was at it’s best.  The temperature was a pleasant 15˚C and the mountains surrounding the small city were covered in a fresh snowfall.  It was as pretty as a post card.  

By 17:00 everyone was on board and we were able to conduct our mandatory safety drill before leaving port.  Everyone was also issued a spiffy blue jacket for the expedition.

The Beagle Channel

At 21:00 we all met in the Observation Lounge for a welcome cocktail and speech from the Captain. The Expedition Team was also introduced at this time.

It will be about 4 hours until we hit the open ocean.  We are expecting fairly calm seas for the rest of the evening.

PETERMANN, LOCKROY AND CHANNELS:

The overnight campers on Petermann Island packed up and returned to the FRAM by 0830 or 8:30AM. Once they were onboard and settled in for breakfast the rest of us went ashore to enjoy the wildlife and the scenery. Perhaps most striking here was the overlook that allowed us to look down on the grounded icebergs in the cove named “iceberg alley.”

Our walk in another direction led us to a rookery with Adelie and Gentoo Penguins and Blue-eyed Shags and several skuas nesting on the periphery of the colonies.

During the course of our landing the low clouds lifted and we could see the striking mass of Mount Scott across the channel. Once we were all back onboard the FRAM headed northward passing back through Lemaire Channel. Our passage in the Channel in the afternoon light was truly enjoyable and one can only guess the number of photos that were taken.

Port Lockroy was named in 1904 by the explorer Charcot for Edouard Lockroy the President of France’s Chamber of Deputies. Lockroy has two claims to fame: he not only helped Charcot obtain funding for his expedition but he also was responsible for the building permit that allowed the engineer Eiffel to construct his tower.

Port Lockroy is unique, but for a different reasons that our other landing sites. Port Lockroy is an excellent museum where the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust has gone to great lengths to preserve and display historical equipment and clothing from the 1950’s and 1960’s when the site was an active research base. Port Lockroy is also for shopping as the UKAHT operates in part of the building a post office and shop selling books, maps and clothing. Best of all profits from the sales go are directed by the UKAHT to restore and maintain bases of historic significance. 

During the first years of occupation at Port Lockroy, humans were the only residents. Now the situation has changed, Genntoo Penguins and Snowy Sheathbill nest in close proximity around and under the buildings at Port Lockroy. One cannot avoid these creatures as you traverse the path to the base building.

Our departure transit from Port Lockroy to Ushuaia took an unexpected turn. The FRAM received a call from a nearby charter yacht that one of their passengers had a medical condition. Following the age old tradition of ships at sea we changed course, rendezvoused with the yacht and the passenger was transferred to the FRAM and now we are on our way across the Drake Passage to Ushuaia.

DANKO AND NEKO:

 Our campers climbed out of their tents this morning to be greeted by a welcoming committee of penguins strolling through the campsite. Working together we took down the tents and packed our gear and headed back to the FRAM for a hearty breakfast and the rest of the days activities.

After breakfast we had a full passenger landing at Danko Island. The topography of the Island is steeper side flanks with a rounded summit. Many of us climbed to the top and enjoyed and photographed the 360 degree view of the surrounding islands.

While onshore we saw Gentoo Penguins and Kelp Gulls with chicks.

Others of us enjoyed kayaking and Polarcirkle boat cruises along the Danko Island shoreline and water-level views of the nearby islands and glaciers.

During lunch the FRAM motored to our second landing site of the day at Neko Harbor.

The Neko Harbor landing site is on the Antarctica and is one of the most, if not the most scenic, locations that we visit. From the rock overlook point we could see and appreciate the steep drop in elevation that the glaciers make as they creep, flow and avalanche in their descent from more that a 1000 meters or yards on the continent to sea level where they calve.

Our hike up to the overlook began on the sandy beach where we had to skirt around lazing Weddell Seals before we headed upward while being careful to avoid the penguin highways. At the almost midway point we encountered a colony of Gentoo Penguins and in this colony the young birds were between 4 and 8 days of age.

After completing the up-hill climb to the overlook point and taking photographs many of us took the “easy way” down the slope by sliding to the base of the hill. Then it wastime to return to the FRAM and have dinner and watch the beauty of Lemaire Channel slip by on our way to Petermann Island to set up the tents for a night of Amundsen style camping.

FOG, FLAT AND CUVERVILLE:

Today’s sunrise was at 02:52 or 2:52AM and at breakfast time the FRAM was motoring in relatively heavy fog across very smooth seas. We continued our transit toward Cuverville Island for an afternoon landing. While underway our Expedition Staff gave 2 lectures: one on the various types of whales frequently encountered in Antarctic waters. This lecture was interrupted when the FRAM slowed to allow us to gather on deck and observe and photograph a group of Killer Whales. The second lecture related the on site experience of two years of wintering over at the Polish Antarctic Research Base named for the geologist Henryk Arctowski.

The overcast skies and a few snow squalls provided the background for our landing at  Cuverville Island. Our Polarcirkle boats had to weave their way through grounded icebergs to get us to and from shore. On shore there were hundreds of thousands of Gentoo Penguins. Some still had eggs and many had very young chicks, perhaps these late hatchlings will not be fully feathered for sea by the time the sea-ice starts to form. This could mean a smaller population at this site next season. The hills behind the landing beach at Cuverville offered some of us the opportunity to hike about and up and down on snowshoes.

After our landing at Cuverville Island we headed slightly south to Danko Island, where 16 of us went overnight camping. Perhaps overnight is not the best term as it never became very dark. The sky was overcast and the sun never was directly shining at our campsite, as a result sunset and sunrise were not clear events. It was darkest at the interval between about a half hour after midnight and a half an hour after one in the morning. Even then it was never truly dark or pitch black as the snow cover provided reflected light. The tents were fine and the 2 layers of sleeping pads kept the cold in the snow and did not allow the cold to penetrate our sleeping bags or us. Before pitching in for the night we hiked to a nearby knoll that overlooked our campsite.        

After that some crawled into their sleeping bags while other walked around our campsite taking additional photos. By 0600 or 6AM the next morning everyone was up and we worked together packing our tents and other equipment for transport back to the FRAM. 

BROWN BLUFF AND BASE ESPERANZA:

 After breakfast we landed at Brown Bluff at the tip of the Peninsula. The very tip is the known as Tabarin Peninsula, while the larger feature is identified as the Antarctic Peninsula or the Palmer Peninsula. With any name it is geologically striking and the home to 1000’s of Adelie and Gentoo Penguins. The Adelie chicks were downy brown and some were almost as large as the adults. The Gentoo chicks were white and grey and were smaller in size, in fact some appeared to be only recently hatched.

At Brown Bluff the beach rocks and the namesake bluff behind the beach are rocks of volcanic origin. The geology of this area has been studied in detail and the volcano partially erupted under and ice sheet. Approximately a million years ago, pillow lavas and volcanic bombs and ash spewed out of the volcano. Today we saw beach boulders with layers of ash intermixed with layers and pebble to cobble size volcanic rocks. Many of the volcanic rocks have vesicles or small holes indicating that the lavas when molten has significant quantities of entrapped gases. A few of the beach boulders have strange shapes to geologists this indicates that their surfaces have been sand blasted by the strong winds, that frequent this area.

Our next stop was at the Argentine Esperanza Base. This region of Hope Bay was first occupied by a British station and now houses the large Esperanza Base. In 1978 the Base was the location where the first person was born in Antarctica. On 7 January 1978 Emilio Marcos Palma was born here.

Our visit to the Base was long planned but nearly cancelled as earlier this week there was a fatal accident at the site. Following several radio conversations with the Base Commander we were welcomed ashore, in part to offset the grim mood following the accident. We were formed in groups ashore and given guided-translated tour of the Base including the museum, school and chapel. Our tour ended at the large social hall where many of us purchased shirts, mailed post cards and enjoyed tea and traditional Argentinean pastries.  

FIRST LANDING AND FOG

 The fog was quite thick at breakfast time. The officers on the bridge were using the radar units to locate and keep us clear of any large icebergs. To allow the officers to focus on safety our visits to the bridge, scheduled for this morning, were postponed and will be rescheduled at a later date. The seas are quite calm and the winds are only at the level of a gentle breeze.

Our first sight of the Antarctic was the South Shetland Islands and as we passed through Nelson Strait we were welcomed by our first sighting of several whales. They welcomed us to Antarctica by broaching off our bow.

By late afternoon we arrived at Half Moon Island and on this our first landing we were greeted by thousands of Chinstrap Penguins, a few Gentoo Penguins and a single Macaroni Penguin. The weather cleared a bit while we were on-shore and the rugged peaks of Livingstone Island became visible through the haze.

The evening closed with the FRAM fashion show. The models were clearly amateurs but recognizable as their professional jobs are as our expedition staff and ships officers. Tonight we are underway to the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula.