A
journey that is named "In the Realm of the Polar Bear" puts quite a
bit of pressure on everybody who is on the delivering side of the trip: The
officers on the bridge slowly get red marks around their eyes from the
binoculars they use all the time, keen sea men are scanning the shorelines, and
the expedition team uses every free moment to watch the area, be it from the
bridge, from every possible window or ashore. So far it was a dashing trip with
wonderful wildlife, but now everybody wants him - the King. Where is the
Bear...?!! Please...?
At
7:20h in the morning, a BingBong goes into all the cabins (everybody who has
traveled with us ever knows what I mean). This can only mean one thing! And
really, Karin's voice is full of excitement when she announces from the bridge
- Polar Bear!
OK,
in the distance, not so close, but a bear!
Just
before we go back to our cabins, or to breakfast - BingBong! This time it's two
bears, mother and a cub, much closer, too. Only now the relief sets in, the
Realm of the Polar Bear has actually Polar Bears to offer. It is a totally
different thing to know that they are there, and to see them.
This
also creates a new sensation ashore: Now everybody feels the presence of the
animals, they are literally just around the corner. We are feeble humans in the
presence of the strongest land predator, and the fresh vigilance of the hikers
is tangible as we set out to climb up the ridge. However, there is one obstacle
on the way, the mud fields that have gained a reputation of being a boot grave.
And apparently the last couple of days have seen plenty of rain, which is not
only unusual, but also turned the already muddy plains into a big swamp. Fast,
tiny steps, don't stop, don't help, this is the recipe to get across. The thing
with all recipes in the world is that they might go wrong the first time. The
swamp is taking its toll. A bit later we are a lot muddier, some boots are wet
from the inside, but we are still happy and relieved, and we certainly have
learned the pitter-patter walk...
In
the meantime Manuel found Polar Bear No. four...
It
is a very, very skinny fellow, about a
mile away. So there is no need to abort the hike at all. On the contrary, once
we reach the first plateau we actually have prime seats to watch the animal
ambling in the far side of the wide valley beyond, across the deep green of the
tundra mosses. A beautiful sight, which we enjoy in awe, before we return to
the mountain walk.
Up
and up it takes us, until we reach a cairn in lofty 260 metres above the
departure point, sporting a huge tripod with a webcam. This rather unexpected
arrangement belongs to the Norwegian Polar Institute and provides valuable data
about weather and ice conditions. Today it probably sends a quite surprising
image to the far away screens; happy hikers assembling for a group picture, in
front of a splendid overview over the bay and FRAM out at anchor.
The
way back is downhill all the way, so we make it in no time, all hikers are
steeled after almost a week of daily exercise. Just before we git the plains
again, we literally stumble across a big fat male reindeer, antlers red from
shedding the protective skin at the end of the season. They have to be ready
for winter soon, and they do look in very good shape.
Without
getting stuck, we make it back to the landing site, definitely time for lunch
now. All are hungry like, well, like a bear...
The
rest of the day is a welcome mix of lectures, relaxing, and the staff's Fashion
Show in the evening. Many had been on a hike every single day, so a little
break won't hurt, will it?
