08:00 standing on
shore at Kinnvika, 4˚C, a gnawing wind again and no one complained about the
cold, or the wind. Indeed, who would
expect any different on September 2nd at N 80˚04’? The first group of 45 people to hit the beach
were those that had opted for an Arctic hike.
The terrain at Kinnvika is barren, barren even for Svalbard. Scattered mosses, lichens and various
vascular plants struggled with a tenuous grip on the lunar-like landscape. The hike led up from the beach to a lofty
cairn most likely put in place during the 1st international geophysical year in
1957 - 58. It was the largest scientific
effort the world had ever seen.
There were
magnificent views from our highest vantage point of 140 m. We continued on out to a small lake at the
base of a plateau where we paused for a rest.
Steffen, our Geologist used the pause to tell us about the interesting
about the rocky wonders surrounding us.
The hike took two
hours to complete and was just under 8 km.
The non-hikers were
free to explore a very large area around the buildings of Kinnvika. Nine of the eleven buildings they constructed
for the 1st International Geophysical Year still stand today and some of them
were opened up so we could inspect inside.
The men stationed at here were studying many things including
geomagnetism, atmospheric chemistry, observations of the sun, the ionosphere,
aurora and cosmic rays. They were a
small but important part of a global research project involving 60,000
scientists from 60 nations.
This was our most
northerly landing. To mark that occasion
mainly people chose to go for a quick dip in the Arctic Ocean. I was impressed that so many people would
brave the cold wind, strip down to their bathing suits or shorts (or whatever
;) and then slowly tread into the
water. I say slowly tread because the
rocks were sharp and hard on the bare feet.
The whole thing was some sort of masochistic torture if you ask me.
In the afternoon we cruised
along the incredible sea bird cliffs of Alkefjellet from the comfort of
Fram. The water was deep where the
cliffs met the sea enabling us to come very close to the rock face. It is late in the season and many of the
birds have already gone out to sea.
Still, there were lots of Kittiwakes flying about the cliff face and
perched on innumerable ledges. The
Kittiwakes always seem the last ones to leave.
At 18:00 we
approached a low sandy beach at Torellneset where three groups totalling
about sixty male walruses were hauled out in tight thigmotactic clusters. To have such an extraordinary opportunity to
witness these splendid animals in such a wild and remote location was indeed a
very special privilege.
After about half an
hour - 45 minutes, one of the smaller groups of Walruses broke up and entered
the sea. The other two groups - one of
about 8 walrus and the other at least 45 Walruses seemed unconcerned with our
presence.
There were also many
walruses patrolling the beach and at the end of the landing a group of 8
curious animals approached us very closely from the sea. There were two large adult males and six
young juveniles. They followed us as we
walked slowly back to the landing site. To say it was an amazing experience
would be a great understatement!
At 21:00 the last Polar cirkel boat left the
beach. Despite the cold rain that fell
throughout the landing, for many people Torellneset and the incredible Walruses
were the highlight of the trip thus far.
