We must have done something right - another
bright sunny morning. This morning we take a leap into the rather recent
history of Svalbard by going to Kinnvika at the western coast of
Nordaustlandet.
Imagine a time when the whole scientific world
agrees upon the necessity of preserving vast areas of this planet, of spending
big money on something that has no immediate output like oil or gold or rare
earth minerals. The yield was knowledge, understanding, protection. What seems
like an impossible thing to happen nowadays was clearly the issue in the year
1957 when the first International Polar Year was held. Driven by the
understanding that some of the key functions that control Earth's climate are
hidden in the Arctic and Antarctic huge efforts were made toward a better grasp
on these matters. And so they build the biggest station in the Arctic, with 11
buildings, a balloon shed and even a sauna. All this is situated in the vast
beauty of the plains of Nordaustlandet, second largest island in the Svalbard
archipelago. So a more than beautiful morning walk/hike builds the chilly
overture of a day that turns out to be the longest of the trip.
A few hours later we sail by a famous rock
cliff, Alkefjellet, a 100m sheer basalt cliff, the structure of which gives
perfect shelter to a multitude of seabirds. The most abundant
"tenant" in this natural apartment building, however, the Brunich's
Guillemot has left already, leaving the space for ten thousands of Kittywakes
and Glaucous gulls.
The skies are getting grey as we pull deeper
into the Strait of Hinlopen, clouds are rolling low, promising rain. But the
light! Photographers are awed by the spectacular contrasts between ice,
brownish mountains and the black volcanic rocks that are pretty common here.
Winds are picking up, too, but fortunately our
next landing site offers a little shelter.
Torellneset, a gravel spit that extends a few
hundred meters into the strait and is a welcome haul-out for walruses. And indeed,
already from the distance we can spot quite a few. And here is the difference
to places like Moffen - now we can walk up to these strange creatures, be on
the same piece of ground. Everybody is excited enough to totally ignore the few
unavoidable splashes in the boat, and with great care we approach until we are
a solid 35 meters away. It's the time to watch them struggling with the length
of their tusks, smell their putrid odour, listen to their weird sounds. And
take millions of pictures, of course.
Suddenly movement in the water not far from
us: Another group of walruses has decided to observe the observers. And as we
assemble cautiously close to the beach we learn how curious these heavy aliens
are: One by one they pop their heads out of the water to look at us. Every now
and then they even dare to come ashore to get a better glimpse. Who's the
attraction now? Them or us?
For quite a while they stay with us, follow us
even as we walk along the shoreline. It's like having an escort from a
different planet. What an encounter!!
As if the day wasn't long and beautiful enough
we reach Bråsvellbreen at night, the longest glacier front in Svalbard, 192
kilometres of sheer ice. The evening light is something between eerie and
charming, a perfect end for a perfect day.
