Sunday 27 July 2014

200,000 Seabirds

Our first landing today was at an old research station called Kinnvika in Murchisonfjorden which was erected for the first International Geophysical Year in 1957.
Kinnvika
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Nine of the eleven buildings they constructed for that project still stand today.  The men stationed at Kinnvika were studying many things including geomagnetism, atmospheric chemistry, observations of the sun, the ionosphere, geomagnetism, aurora and cosmic rays.  They were a small but important part of a global research project involving 60,000 scientists from 60 nations.
Like the air and the clouds above us, the landscape was cold and grey.  
Alkefjellet
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Alkefjellet
Photo © Morten Hilmer

Alkefjellet
Photo © Morten Hilmer

In the afternoon we cruised along the incredible sea bird cliffs of Alkefjellet from the comfort of Fram.   This was the nesting site for 120,000 Brunichs Guillemots plus numerous Black-legged Kittiwakes, and other seabirds.  The total population of birds on these impressive cliffs would be in the neighbourhood of 200,000.  Looking at the birds filling the sky it seemed as if you could see all of them at once.

Walrus at Torellneset
Photo © Morten Hilmer
After the amazing cliffs of Alkefjellet we  landed near a low sandy beach at Torellneset where a large group of male walruses were hauled out in a tight cluster.   It was fantastic to watch the interactions of the huge males as they seemed to jockey for better positions.  Eventually a group of three young males separated from the main group and following the shoreline swam towards us.  They were quite curious and it was wonderful to see for a brief time from just a few metres away.
Walrus at Torellneset
Photo © Morten Hilmer